Surrealistic Pillar 

An underground classic! I climb this one everytime I visit the park. Don't be intimidated, the Pillar climbs and protects nicely. I like a #5 camalot (green) for the initial slot (although it is not mandatory). Save some hand size/thin hand for the top.

This thing is fantastic - truely a hidden gem right there in Hidden Valley Campground. This baby provides a bit of variety in the climbing from stemming to a small roof, maybe a hip scum in there. Super positive rock - taking excellent gear of a variety of sizes. Nuts, small brassies, and small to large cams.

Looking forward to doing it again and leading it.

Walked off the back side. From the top out go straight back then veer right, go right past a large block (or scramble down below it) down a slab and around the front of Buissonier. There may be other ways down but that one works.

Enjoy it....I did!

~Susan

Great route! Definitely a sleeping classic.

Expect lots of funky body English as you work your way through the various sections of this climb. I didn't find one particular area that was the crux, just lots of thought provoking moves - with a bit of a final pump at the end.

Gear was good, and always right where you need it.

I didn't do the straight-up finish (ran out of slings and didn't want the rope drag), but it looked OK and fairly protectable. The rock quality out there was somewhat dubious though....

Even without the variation finish, this climb is definitely one to tick.

Gear: Thin (I placed a large RP) to #3 Camalot. The top part, though it looks big, actually climbs more like a thin hands crack. Bring some long slings.

The 'straight up' variation at the top is rather hard to protect; I recall using a large (#13) nut because the pods didn't like cams. Certain cams might fit. This size nut usually does not make it onto my rack. Rock quality is good except for a tipsy flake at the beginning of the top section.