Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Me leading the second pitch of Mike's Books.
Description
I always thought this was a fairly enjoyable route. Mike's Books is found on the south side of I-Rock. The first pitch (the first "book") is formed by a big rounded chunk of rock that makes a right-facing corner/ramp. I haven't been over there in recent years, but it seemed pretty popular a while back.
P1: There are two potential starts to the route:
1) Directly below the corner, there is a steep chute that goes at 5.8. I recall there was some protection, but it requires care when exiting the chute to climb up to the main corner.
2) You can go out left of the 5.8 start and climb up onto a sloping ledge. This ledge can then be traversed back right to reach the base of the first "book". Once you reach the right-facing corner, climb up this (pretty moderate) to reach a bolted belay anchor [replaced 1/02 with 1/2" stainless and camouflaged hangers - ed.].
P2: From the bolted anchor, move left into another right-facing corner system (the second "book"). Climb this until it ends, and continue to the top via slab. There is another bolted anchor on top [replaced 1/02 with 1/2" stainless and camouflaged hangers - ed.].
Descent: You can either rap the route in two half-rope rappels (fairly quick and if your packs are at the base...), or you can cross over to the top of the North Overhang route and do a half-rope rap to a large ledge on the north side (where the Upper Right Ski Track starts) and scramble down from there.
Protection
Standard rack. Nuts and cams to 3" or so. Bolted anchors (1/2").
The second pitch is slightly offwidth; I suggest racking to a #4 Camalot. The 5.6 rating is quite reasonable, but it will sure feel more difficult if you're only carrying up to 3 inch gear...
Mike's Books is a fun route and was one of my first leads (after the Blob) at J-Tree. I remeber the traverse in from the left as being slightly awkward as you move in to the chimmny/groove. There's also alot of flakes and jugs on the face of the groove which makes it go at a reasonable 5.6. The 2nd pitch is a bit wide but not to difficult. After the crack ends you have a bit of face climbing that's protected by 1 bolt.(At least a few years ago). It's hard to see(the bolt) at the begining of the face and you think, "wow this is going to be a sporty finish" but the bolt is there, hidden in a depression. Have fun!
The original rating in the Wolfe book was 5.5. The bolt for the finish didn't appear untill the late 70's or early 80's. The last nut also had an unnerving habit of falling out. There were no bolted belays obviously. Last time I did it thought, (Boy, we used to do this with only hexes?)
Fun route. Carry the biggest pieces you've got, if you want an excuse to place them. You won't need them, but you'll be able to find somewhere to put them if you want to. I'm certainly not encouraging bolting anchors all over the park, but the fact that both of them are bolted on this climb sure makes it a quick one!
I thought the var start looked harder than the dihedral 3 feet to left of it. It seemed about 5.7 to me tho I'm sure anyone much shorter than 6 feet may disagree.
Climbed this on 9/26/04 and the anchors for the first pitch seem to be missing. At least I couldn't find them and I remember them being fairly obvious the last time I did it (several years ago). Not a major malfunction as there is a great horizontal crack to build an anchor, but it means that you'll have to scramble across to the top of Upper Ski Track Right for the rap to the big ledge. You ca no longer do descent in two raps as indicated (at least not without leaving gear).
I climbed MB on 10-31-04 and the anchors are still there. On the first pitch they are 4' to the right as you exit the crack onto the ledge. The second pitch is a chain with rap rings just above the old bolt protecting the face. First pitch (indirect from the left) is definitely 5.6 but the second was a little wide (#4 helpful) and awkward (and that sharp fin below you YIKES!) Pitch 2 maybe 5.6+ to 5.7ish but not 5.8. All in all a fun climb.
After the diheadral on the second pitch and before the face with a bolt finish, I walked to the right and climbed the right facing hand crack to the top and then back to the anchors to belay my second. It is not listed in the book but it felt like 5.8+ (I was wearing my tennies though). Does anyone know if it is the finish to anything??
By mmurduff From: Foothill Ranch, CA Oct 30, 2005 rating: 5.7
The morning sun on this face makes it a great first route of the day. Both sets of anchors are intact.
I found the top of the first pitch akward off-width, but looking back, you could chimney or face climb. If you are not tuned to Jtree runouts, bring a #4 or so piece to protect the wider parts. I ended up thrutching and groveling 15 feet out from a #3 camalot. Don't jump on this route without atleast giving it a once over. Anchor bolts were good as of 12/28/05.
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jun 11, 2006 rating: 5.8 PG13
We put a grade of 5.8 on this climb only if doing the direct start to pitch 1. You can get a good cam in to protect the direct start but its still a pretty tough move. Be careful on the beginning of pitch 2 (PG-13, bring a large cam!)as the wide section is pretty committing for a 5.6! The anchors are great as of April 06'.
By Bill Rusk From: Duluth, MN Feb 17, 2008 rating: 5.7
I didn't really enjoy this route. I thought it was a little stiff for 5.6. You could definantly use a #4 for the second pitch. There are much better climbs of that rating in the area.
Intersection Rock
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