Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: Intersection Rock showing The Flake
Description
This route gives the climber a little bit of everything. An easy chimney/squeeze, hand crack, fingers, and face climbing. It's long and wonderful. The face bit at the top I recall as being a little interesting, but if you have your "Josh feet" tuned up (trusting that friction!), it shouldn't be any problem at all.
Protection
A big piece would probably be handy for the initial chimney section. After that, a good smattering of nuts and cams will get you to the top. Two bolts protect the finishing face.
By Chris Miller Administrator Oct 30, 2002 rating: 5.8
This is great, single-pitch moderate which requires being versed in a variety of techniques to succeed; the super short approach doesn't hurt either. Nothing larger than a #3 Camalot should be needed, even in the wide section at the beginning (hint - facing left is easier). Three stars out of five.
If you don't have a big piece, don't worry, there is a small Horizontal crack about 10' off the deck that you can stick a TCU or an Alien into and it will help you get started.
Have fun in the chimney! Get through it and the rest of the route is fun!
Just did this route again last weekend after not having been on it for more than five years. The bottom (chimney/offwidth)was a little harder than I remember!, but gears up nice. A compelling natural line that has a little bit of everything on it to enjoy.
Dick Webster and I put up the FA to the top of the flake in 67. I've climb this route more times than I can count--twice this year. I use it for instruction. First, I believe we should have rated it 5.9. There are many nines I've done over the years that are easier. Second, after putting pro in the small horizontal and moving to the jam, reach back behind the edge and you'll find a large pocket with a small one within it. The small pocket will take a bomber cam. The horizontal has taken a lot of stress over the years, and I no longer trust it alone.
I find the chimney not too strenuous if you use classic chimney technique: don't get sucked in too deep & start 'off-widthing'. The chimney atop The Orphan (5.9) feels stiffer, so I feel 5.8 is a good rating.
I led this route today with Woody in tow and I must admit, that "Squeeze Chimney" move was no easy task for this old boy. I kind of think maybe 5.9 fits. It really is a fun route. But I don't think I'll rush back and get on it again anytime soon. Thanks Woody! It's over; let's get the hell away from Hidden Valley now!
I did this route in 97 or 98 with a bunch of canadians. The idea was to watch the sunset from the simmit. I was last of 5 of us and had to climb it in the dark no lamp. I really enjoyed it even tough I couldn't see much. I think it deserves 3 stars. Although when I topped out I saw millions.
My buddy (Anthony Bilotti) did this route back in 1990 during our spring break in High School. We did not have a lot of leading experience but managed to pull this off and have a lot of fun. Great route.
Came back to do it again after many years and WOW, that chimney sucks! The rest is great! It simply is not 5.8 at the start.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.8
great start and superb finish. the stuff in between aint bad either
Just did this route. The chimney is old school 5.8 so watch out! If you are a 5.8 climber, I would bring some big gear. If your biggest piece is a grey Camalot like me, you will have three long unprotected wide sections. This climb has it all and is a nice route for the consummate climber. I would do it in one long pitch.
Fantastic! Long pitch with lots of variety. I'd add an additional star to this one. At the same rating, I think it's better than Dogleg and Hands Off. The 5.8 rating is fair if you have any wide experience at all.
The wide section deters some people, but it's really not bad, and you can almost sew this up once you get to the first little horizontal slot (takes good yellow TCU or yellow Alien). After the intial thrutch, the climbing eases off considerably until the final slab crux where you have a bolt right below you. This is a long pitch, but you don't really need doubles. Take a set of nuts and a single set of cams from yellow TCU/Alien to #4 Camalot and you'll have plenty. Don't get suckered by the bolt on the face of the flake out right about halfway up, apparently it's for a squeeze job between this and the west chimney.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Jan 20, 2007 rating: 5.8
I agree with Will. This route is much better than "hands off" for the grade. Get your chimney skills rolling right from the deck with relief coming soon. Watch your head at the top of the chimney, I just bonked my head. Protect there with 3" cam or so the immediately start in the heel toe section about it until you gain a nice finger/hand crack. Protects extremely well from there.
Exciting top moves in the wind. Thank God for bolts. By the way this is not a good route to solo, I don't care who tells you it is. HUGE penalty for coming off up high. Stay on a cord and stay alive.
Don't listen to all these chimney-whiners! (Are you rock climbers or sport climbers?) The flake is a fantastic line and usually the first route I jump on when I'm back in the park. Cheers to Woody and Dick who put this thing up the year I was born. *Remember to bring the windbreaker as it often seems to be blowing on top.
Intersection Rock
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