Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
At the crux. Photo: Eric Draper
Description
Located on the right side of The Wall about 25' right of an obvious chimney system that splits the formation.
Steep slab climbing on polished, slippery smears (this is a popular route) past five bolts lead into a flared groove/crack. Gear belay and descend along the right margin of the wall. A little chimneying/tunneling and some downclimbing will land you back at your pack in a matter of minutes.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 21, 2003 rating: 5.10a
Did this climb very recently, came flying off it at the crux. Warning: Don't flash a .10c then jump on this climb! It'll humble you. Quite unnerving at the crux but still a very good climb with good positions and moves.
Beautiful small/meduim Hex placement next to the last bolt, but why place it?
The crux may be technically 5.9 but the slippery nature makes it feel like a 5.10.
Fall, singular? I always figured I learn quick, but it took me 4 or 5 tries at the crux. Something like smear left, crimp crystals and slide. I appologize for leaving a bit more rubber on the rock.
Great climb on a warm day, as both the base (I think) and climb are in the shade 'til early afternoon (I won't mention the temps at the top, though). Easy scramble to the south from the top.
I lead this one on 1.22.05. I would agree with the 5.10a rating. The crux is moving off of the 3rd bolt. There is a good yellow alien placement on the first horizontal with good chicken heads to stand on while placing. Just bring draws, a few cams to 3", plus the yellow alien and you will be fine. I brought too much gear an fell once at the crux.
Shut me down--after onsighting Bearded Cabbage, Hobbit Roof, and other tens that day... Its slippery!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jul 8, 2006 rating: 5.10a
One of my early leads for the grade at J-Tree, as it was (is) well protected, and in the morning shade. Nice route, fun moves. Three stars out of five.