Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Description
This route is about at the mid-point of the south face and gets sun most of the day in the winter.
Walk to the west slightly from Bat Crack to find a brown bulge about 4 meters off of the ground. Some chalk may help highlight the line that ascends up dark plates (more solid than they look) under the right hand side of the roof, then up and left on good clings. Power up and left to go under the roof into a good jam and to good protection (hand-sized cam) and finish in the crack. A few jugs pepper the crack above to make the climbing easier and fun.
Very fun overhanging hand crack. Perfect jams and perfect gear--if only it were longer! Bring a small cam (yellow metolious/green alien) for placing in the small horizontal crack, protecting the move into the overhanging handcrack.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Dec 11, 2006 rating: 5.10b
Since I was last on this route a good, albeit thin "horn" has broken off at the start of the crack. Seemed a bit harder than before when it was rated 10a.
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 16, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Decent climbing, but it's very short - even by JT standards.