Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Squirming, grunting, and cursing with a relaxed feel. Bring the wide stuff, and wear more than a thong and sports-bra. The climb is always reasonable with an edge not too far away, and requires some pure ow/squeezy moves on good clean rock.
Protection
This route starts around the corner (clockwise) from Mike's Books and ascends the obvious left-leaning wide crack.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 10, 2004 rating: 5.7
Not a bad route that will often be available when the area by Overhang Bypass/The Flake is busy. Easily done as a single pitch, the transition from crack to friction face is especially memorable (there is one 3/8" bolt on the upper face).
the only reason going from the crack to the face is memorable is because it feels great getting the hell out of that Offwidth hell!!! Calling this wide, squirmy route a 5.7 is nuts IMO... Maybe 5.8 as it is listed here... But for me today it felt more like a 5.9... then again my offwidth technique has never been that good... just like with Waterchute 5.10b, I am glad this one is now out of the way...
Led the first pitch today. I thought it was pretty straight forward as far as climbs of this nature go. It will certainly scare off the gym climbers and bragadocios without wide cred. Second pitch is all there, but somewhat runout. All in all I'm glad it's off my tic-list! Don
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