Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
David comfortably situated just past the bolt.
Description
The east face of Intersection Rock is sliced by several left- slanting crack systems (The Ski Tracks), all of which offer good to excellent crack climbing. This route, as the name implies, takes the left-most crack, that reaches from the ground all the way to the top in one elegant sweep.
While it's certainly possible to break into two pitches, it's recommended to be done as one long pitch. The crux is found early on near a bolt, but stays interesting for a bit longer. Near the halfway mark there are several options to finish - 1) stay in the crack to the top or 2) cut out right and climb steep plates, finishing right of the crack. To descend make two single rope rappels down Mike's Books on the south face of the formation or make one single rope rappel from the top of North Overhang on the north side of the formation (you will want a 60 meter rope for this rap).
A really fun route that is so close to the road there's really no excuse for not doing it at least once. Should the climbing seem difficult, imagine climbing it like Tom Higgins did on the first free ascent - without all the modern gear available today! Three stars out of five.
This is the best route for it's grade that I've done at Joshua Tree. Definitely deserves more than 3 of 5 stars in Randy's guidebook, at least in my opinion :)
I backed off this route when I tried it about a year and a half ago. I absolutely could not trust the gear just below the crux... I believe it was a red alien in a slightly flaring boxy pin scar.I tested it best I could from the ground but I just couldn't commit to the crux once I'd climb back up... it just looked too sketchy. If it blows, its probably hello groundfall. Anyone fallen' on this piece? There really aren't any other options for gear so I suspect this is the piece most people use.
I found Bendix Claws to be considerably easier, though who knows since I wasn't willing to commit to this section.
It took me 4 or 5 tries to red point this one. The first try was practically C1 last spring as I wasn't even strong enough for the route and I quickly discovered (as you did) that the gear is very tricky. However it does protect well. I got 4 excellent pieces in before getting to the bolt, and there's a place for a 5th. I won't publicly post a ton of gear beta for those that don't want to read it, but with Aliens and TCUs it protects quite well and I can assure you that the placements below the bolt can hold falls :) After the bolt the climbing and gear placement ease dramatically.
once you commit to the crux you can shove a purple Camalot(#4) itno the fist, hand jam slot, or if you want to dodge the jam you can plae it before the crux, this will definatly keep you off the deck.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 23, 2003
Strenuous!! Luckily it eases way up after the crux.
I have to agree with Josh. The #4TCU works great down low. Took a fall on it and it held. With that confidence and a quick lower to the ground, sent it next try. That and a #4 B.D. is all you really need to get you to the bolt. That is what I love about this site. Friendly gear beta, pictures, and stories about the 'ole days'. Keep'em coming.
I dont want to give away too much beta for those who don't want it, but a number 2 C4 fits wonderfully in the back of the number 4 placement mentioned above, and the smaller piece will help make this jam/hold still usable.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Oct 24, 2007 rating: 5.11a
Here is some early 80's footage of me soloing the Left Ski Track.
Great climb. Have done it a few times now. The crux is getting to the bolt for me I have since now got it clean. But have fallen before the bolt on a #2 Camelot plugged into the flarry crack. I also used a #4 red metolius tcu just below the #2 and have fallen on that as well. Both pieces of pro held my fall. Just put them in correctly. I also weigh about 140 pounds. Have fun on this classic.
Intersection Rock
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