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The Old Woman - West Face
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Dandelion Stem 

5.10a

   

FA: Eric Burt and Steve Aho
New Route: Yes
Type: TR
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 273 page views

Submitted By: Eric Burt on Jan 16, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Thanks to "Flying T" for the photo. Dandelion Ste...


Description 

This route is a direct start variation to the route Dandelion on The Old Woman. Start 15 feet right of the diagonal crack at the base of Dandelion on the face directly below Dandelion's vertical crack. Stemming moves bring you up to holds on the right and eventually a pinch 5 ft to the right of the vertical crack. Traverse left into the vertical crack to join and finish with Dandelion.


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TR



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The Old Woman - West Face

BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face


Comments on Dandelion Stem Add Comment
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By Eric Burt
Feb 3, 2005

See below for a better picture of the route. See also the related route Dandelion Wine.

By Murf
Feb 3, 2005

You really think you are the first to do these starts?

By Eric Burt
Feb 3, 2005

Frankly I didn't expect to be. I mentioned them to both Bob Gaines and Randy Vogel, who didn't know of others who had explicitly claimed them. At least they are documented. If someone else wants to claim them I will be more than happy to change the FA.

By Eric Burt
Feb 3, 2005

By the way, while Dandelion Stem is just a direct start to Dandelion, Dandelion Wine is a completely different route, with no part in common with Dandelion.

By The Gray Tradster
Feb 3, 2005

I did it with Tobin Sorensen back in the early/mid 70's.

You mean the Orphan doesn't really start that way?

By The Gray Tradster
Feb 4, 2005

I looked it up this morning and we did do The Orphan.

Your variation on Dandilion was done long ago though as well as just about every alternate start within walking distance of HVCG

By Randy
Feb 4, 2005

In the absence of definitive information of an earlier ascent, the person who reports it first is recorded as the FA. For instance, unless concrete information of an earlier ascent of Dogleg or Double Cross is ever uncovered [being an unambiguous and credible eyewitness, written record or photographic evidence], I am not changing the FA/FFA info for these routes -- despite it being very highly likely that they were done previously.

Crags develop in odd patterns, and just because people have been climbing on a rock for decades, doesn't mean that every line of ascent (even if moderate in difficulty) has been climbed. There are many variations and new lines of ascent in HVCG (and the Old Woman) that have only recently been climbed [e.g.: Sexy Grandma].