Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Cyclops Rock
Show routes:
Select route...
Are We Ourselves 
Carolyn's Rump 
Circe 
Cyclops Direct 
Eye, The 
Goldilocks 
Gray Cell Green 
Leader's Fright 
New Year's Day 
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics, The 
Overnight Sensation 
Penelope's Walk 
Spaghetti & Chili 
Surface Tension 
Thin Red Line 

New Year's Day 

5.10c

   

FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 90 feet
Views: 140 page views

Submitted By: Craig Clarence on Mar 13, 2004


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Moving through the crux on the 2nd pitch. Photo b...


Description 

This route is located between Are We Ourselves and Grey Cell Green. Start by climbing 10' or so to a bolt at the bottom of a large scoop, then head straight up over a bulging left-facing flake - small cam behind the flake if you trust it. After manteling on top of the flake, clip the pin buried in a seam above (easy to miss). Then diagonal up and right to the anchors atop Grey Cell Green. Start the second pitch by moving up and left to the first bolt on a vague arete, then follow bolts and pins straight up to the top of the formation.

The last bolt has a bail link on it - don't quit now! The moves above the bolt are steep, but a few better-than-expected edges will get you to the final short exit crack.

Fun route that will get better as it cleans up. Two stars out of five.


Protection 

Not quite a sport route - with only one bolt and one pin on the first pitch, some will want a small cam as well. The second pitch is well protected with pins and bolts, although a hand-sized cam can be used to protect the final short exit crack.



Photos of New Year's Day Slideshow Add Photo
New Year's Day

BETA PHOTO: New Year's Day


Comments on New Year's Day Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 6, 2004
rating: 5.10b

This climb is better than it looks and easily done as one pitch, but the first bolt is a serious eyesore IMO. The upper section is the best with holds appearing when you need them despite appearances from below. Two stars out of five.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 25, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c

Fun route. Sunny exposure, though exposed to the winds. We did it in two pitches, but one pitch could work fine. P1 requires gear(bring one set of cams to #3 camalot). P2 has bolts and pins and is safely protected. You'll want a hand-size cam for the final crack to the top. Anchor takes TCU sized cams.

Felt 10c-ish to me, but the grainy feet up high (still cleaning up a bit) might have made it seem harder. Balancy and fun climbing through the upper cruxes.

By Murf
Dec 28, 2008

I've done this route starting on the crack up and right from Grey Cell Green. I think you have a stretch of badish rock this way, and it is done in one pitch. Fun up high and sunny.