Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Moving through the crux on the 2nd pitch. Photo b...
Description
This route is located between Are We Ourselves and Grey Cell Green. Start by climbing 10' or so to a bolt at the bottom of a large scoop, then head straight up over a bulging left-facing flake - small cam behind the flake if you trust it. After manteling on top of the flake, clip the pin buried in a seam above (easy to miss). Then diagonal up and right to the anchors atop Grey Cell Green. Start the second pitch by moving up and left to the first bolt on a vague arete, then follow bolts and pins straight up to the top of the formation.
The last bolt has a bail link on it - don't quit now! The moves above the bolt are steep, but a few better-than-expected edges will get you to the final short exit crack.
Fun route that will get better as it cleans up. Two stars out of five.
Protection
Not quite a sport route - with only one bolt and one pin on the first pitch, some will want a small cam as well. The second pitch is well protected with pins and bolts, although a hand-sized cam can be used to protect the final short exit crack.
By Chris Miller Administrator Sep 6, 2004 rating: 5.10b
This climb is better than it looks and easily done as one pitch, but the first bolt is a serious eyesore IMO. The upper section is the best with holds appearing when you need them despite appearances from below. Two stars out of five.
Cyclops Rock
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