Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: West Face Overhang
Description
This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up.
This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof.
There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble down, or scramble up to the top of The Flue, and rap again.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 26, 2004 rating: 5.7
This is a decent route and moderate well worth hopping on if in the vicinity. Easily done in a single pitch with lots of slings, which is perhaps the best way to do this route.
It's hard to believe a climber would have route-finding difficulties on this climb as it's an obvious crack system. Another descent option after rapping from the summit is to circle around towards Pinched Rib and downclimb an easy crack.
An interesting climb with a little of everything: crack, slab, chimney, traverse. I can't figure out why the lower section moves left and then back to the right; the multiple crack system straight up between these points is no harder than grade and looks easy to protect. I recommend the 5.10b direct finish when possible.
Chimney Rock - West Face
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