Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Apr 30, 2003
Just to add to Kelly's description, Beginner's Two lies a little ways right (south) of The Bong. I've always descended to climber's left to the top of the Bong, and then downclimbed as for that route. However, this might be a case where the downclimb is harder than the actual route! Does anyone know of the easiest descent option?
Perhaps contracting all concessions to Disney will help. Then all descents will be easily identified through the gift shops, where you can buy a photo of your face at the crux.
See The Blob comments for a 5.0 descent off the northeast.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 5, 2006 rating: 5.7
The easiest descent is East (towards the Old Woman). Walk and scramble along the crest of the formation. Continue heading downhill (Class 2-3) until reaching the top of Papa Woolsey. There are slings and rap rings around a large chalkstone. It is also possible to descend to the south (from atop Papa Woolsey) via a 5.0 path.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 5, 2006 rating: 5.7
Although "Beginner's Two" is an extremely fun route, prospective climbers should know that there are 2 distinct 5.7 cruxes---yes 5.7! The first is leaving the large alcove at the start of the main crack (you may be able to bypass this crux with some unprotected face climbing out to the left). The second comes near the top of the formation and pulls through a short off-width section.
Easiest descent is probably to walk climber's right across the top of the formation to the far right end of the west face and descend low angle and ledgy terrain southwest to a point where you can work back a bit west to the top of the chimney descent commonly used for Bussonier. You will know it's the right chimney because there is an old bolt sleeve (no bolt) right at the top of the chimney. Basically go to the far right, follow the path of least resistance down to the chimney.
This route is a giant sandbag for the rating. Involves a fair amount of wide climbing on low angle terrain with a crux where is steepens just before the top. Realistically probably 5.6+. Probably not a great new leader route. Although I wasn't on a rope and not looking for them, I didn't really see many places you would get gear. The Bong is a much better route both for climbing and for a new leader (it's also easier).
When I did this last week, my partner and I rapped off of bolts with a nest of webbing on the other side of the rock. It's mostly a free rappel, and it landed us on a large ledge that was still about 12 feet or so off the ground. He slung a boulder, took all my gear, and rapped down to the ground. Then I dismantled his anchor and climbed down a convenient tree.
The point is: the descent isn't obvious, and the top of the formation is pretty big, so make sure you know where to head once you're done with the route (I wish we had).
The Climb: Sand bag at "5.2". That is nothing new for 40 year old routes however. Stemming up the start could go at 5.5 but near the top of that section I went left on the face and regretted the decision. I probably would have been happier sitcking to the stemming a little longer. Grovel on up through the long, tight 5.2-5.4 OW. Dont look for much pro from the beginning of the climb until after the second crux either unless you've brought a few 4-5" cams. Nearly the entire crack is 4-6" wide and flared and little other pro exists where you need it. Carrying up to a #3 camalot I could only get (primarily near the more challenging parts) 4 or 5 pieces of gear in on the 180' from start to the top. Keep on up through a few other minor challenges to what Matthew refers to as the 5.7 OW. I enjoy working on OW skills but this one was funky. Save a #3 camalot for the 2nd crux - perfect pod to fit one before starting the 2nd crux. I would suggest that you may want to be a 5.8 josh leader to tackle that little 15' OW section comfortably. There is not too much for hands and feet. You can hit whats below you with only that blue camalot in, so you dont want to botch it.
Anchor requires slightly larger gear in the main crack OR walk back further and there is a decent place to the right of the rack to use some medium pieces.
The descent: I don't think its reasonable to expect you will find the south descent without a lot of hunting. Agree with Mike the downclimb to the Bong descent looks not just harder than the climb up, but dangerous. Unless you want an adventure I dont know this route is worth doing unless you are with someone who knows the Bouisoneer descent or you know it. It's an easy chimney descent for someone use to j-tree descents but finding the top of it is somewhat hard. There is no rusted spinner bolt there anymore. A local climber I met mentioned the papa woolsey rap slings are not to be trusted lightly. Lastly, dont take a beginner on this climb without lowering them back off before you do the descent unless they are cool with hopping down boulders and 5.0 downclimbing with exposure.
There is an arch near a bathtub that can be slung. A singe rope rap will get you down to the top of The Bong. From there go northeast toward some brown knobby looking rock. Work your way left into a cave and chimney down it, fourth class and then downclimb the rest of the way. It's not hard.
I lead this route years ago and it scared the crud out of me. Insecure moves with questionable gear!
By Jason Partin From: San Diego, CA Nov 16, 2009 rating: 5.6
DO NOT PUT SOMEONE ON IT FOR A FIRST CLIMB WITHOUT DOING IT YOURSELF FIRST! This is not a 5.2 climb, as the book says!!! The consensus on MP is 5.5 to 5.6, with a few people calling the crux move 5.7. Regardless of the exact rating (which will always be subjective) it's a difficult move through the crux, with poor protection, and decking potential should the leader fall. I learned this last weekend when I put someone on their first trad lead. They did it, but thought The Bong was a lot easier, and I agree. It's a fun route, but the 5.2 rating in Vogel's book and the name "Beginners" are deceiving for new climbers... It's a 5.5 - 5.6 crack with decking potential, so be careful.