Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Past both cruxes, easy to the top.
Description
This route is the aptly named broad groove just 8' right of the direct Start to Mike's Books on the SE end of the Intersection Rock.
The meat of the route is divided into two cruxes, the first of which is getting more than one move off of the ground by pulling/pushing onto a left-leaning flake off of a sloper foot. Wide stemming makes this easier and more secure for the flexible people. Another (easier) crux lies perhaps 15 or 20 feet up, above a so-so TCU placement. One bolt remains on the route, and others were either broken or chopped, which is hard to say. The route is somewhat runout, but for the real crux you need a spotter, not protection.
Rap from the fixed chains on the ledge.
Protection
bolt (3/8"), standard rack (you can lead this with a few TCU's and the fixed gear)
This was the first 5.9 I ever climbed (original rating), and I've probably fallen off the first move more than anyone. The first move used to be doable by a horrible rounded layback, but as this because greased up it became near impossible. The upper crux is very frustrating as well.
In the dim past we considered the first move off the ground 5.8; but, as Randy makes clear, it's well beyond that now; and, if you try it, you'll probably rip open your left shin when your foot slips. Dick Webster used to run at it and leap into the bottom of the chute and spread his knees to grab hold. I tried that once--only once.
One can bypass the greasy move into the bottom of The Waterchute by climbing the face to its right then stepping over into it. This approach is no more than 5.9. It's unprotected so have a spot. By doing this, the route is 5.9. The original approach--to me--isn't worth the bleeding shin you're likely to get if you blow it.
I found the second crux to be at the bolt, though it was easier than getting off the ground. Hexes were helpful in the flare above the bolt. To me the alternate start seemed harder than 5.9. If you're going to skip the original start, don't bother with the route, it's half the "fun".
There is another way to do the start other than the hard lieback. It involves a stem move and a hand-foot match. Flexibility is a must, but if you have it, it's far easier than the slick lieback.
Intersection Rock
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