Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Flying T sniffing for the sweetest jams on Dandeli...
Description
On the south side of The Old Woman and 15' right of Orphan is this nice climb with a minimal approach and a variety of moves.
Start up a nice handcrack that arches up and right (crux) to meet a thin crack on a lower-angled ramp. Continue up the ramp with minimal protection as the crack peters out, until the top where a welcome bolt protects the last smeary moves to the top. You'll end up on the same ledge to belay as Toe Jam and it's neighboring routes; afterwards, move over 15' and rap off from bolted anchors atop Bearded Cabbage, circling back around the formation to reach your pack.
This route gets few stars in the guidebooks, but the climbing is good and there tends to be little traffic compared to some of the other nearby routes. Every bit as good as Orphan and not as thrutchy - have a go at it. One star out of five.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 6, 2003 rating: 5.9
A good route with reasoanble pro. Better than others that got good reviews on this rock. How did someone give Orphan more stars in the book, even subjectively?
THis really is a 2-star route. A variety of nice technical moves here and there and overall good stone.
This route felt soft for J-tree 5.10a. It seems more like 5.9.
For what it's worth, I think that Orphan is a better route on better rock with better gear, but it's just my opinion and hey, there's other things that everyone has one of too :)
I agree this route had some poor rock on the traverse, but the jams that appear in the vertical crack feel great. If you're good on Josh friction, the top slab is straightforward, but I'm afraid I inadvertently sandbagged someone on it, as the crux is definitely down lower. Great climb!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 4, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Compared to a 1000 other routes at Josh, this one isn't bad. It's one of those classic "lets just hang around here" kinda routes, along with Bearded Cabbage, the Spiderline, Chalk up Another and other decent HVC routes.Accepts decent gear and provides a few variables in movement. Myself and J Gipson
"Brass Balls" and I did this one recently and I agree totally that it is one with some really fun moves. THe move from the arching crack to the vertical crack is a kick. Once you get in the vertical, it is straight forward crack to pretty easy friction. Too few moves to be awarded two stars by me. But close...
I did this route recently and after doing it the standard way (via the arching crack) decided to TR the direct start up the face below the vertical crack. This involves some nice stemming up to a pinch followed by a traverse left of about 5 ft to the base of the vertical crack. There's no pro for the face moves so it's probably a TR only. Has anyone else done this?
The Old Woman - West Face
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