Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
With it's easy approach, fun moves and varied climbing it's easy to see why this route is so popular. Located on the left-most section of The Wall, a little before the northern apex of the front loop in Hidden Valley Campground. The crack is enjoyable throughout it's entire length, with stemming, jamming and combinations of the two techniques all played out on good rock.
Gear belay and a somewhat circuitous but easy downclimb off the slabby backside. Hint: once down to the desert floor, head left and then follow a trail that will circle back towards the base of the climb. Three stars out of five.
This is a really fun climb. It looks easier than it really is. There are three different 5.8 crux sections and all types of techniques are employed. I would give it a 5.8+ and three stars. I used all sizes of gear from a green alien up to a #3 Camalot. It takes great pro.
Well, I liked this one too for the first 15 feet until I decked and broke my ankle in 3 places. Watch out for the opening moves and place early and often. I placed a bomber hex and #6 bd nut that held great. The problem, I didn't place when I had the chance at 15' up. A lesson to all leaders who get lazy with an easy grade such as this one. Awkward 5.8+.
Awesome route with some akward moves in a shallow crack.
By Obi From: San Diego, CA Oct 8, 2006 rating: 5.8+
Somewhat awkward, but really great moves all the way up. Not sure if what I was doing was jamming, face climbing or a weird hybrid of the two. Definitely makes you think about how to use your feet and set your body up correctly for the moves.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Oct 24, 2006 rating: 5.8+
The beginning of this climb may be a bit "R-ish" for some folks.
Excellent, technical route. A favorite for afternoon sun.
By SirVato From: Toyota-rado Jan 3, 2007 rating: 5.8
Fun route!! We did this at night which made for a fun time. The route is directly behind our camp so, a couple of beers later boredom set in and the rack went on!! Definitely a cool mix of jamming/stemming. The to out was real fun as well.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Feb 23, 2007 rating: 5.8+
As a new leader you might find this route awkward and a bit hard.
Fun climb, might have been easier if I knew how to properly hand jamb. A couple of awkward spots that require some creative movement. Hauling my camera up on a shoulder sling probably didn't help either.
This is quite possibly my favorite route at JTree. This aesthetic line demands flawless style and requires every technique in the book. Put a beginner on this and watch him flail. Put a pro on this and watch him have the time of his life.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
