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The Wall - Left Side
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Hands Off 

5.8

   

FA: John Long and Brian Portoff, October 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 644 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005


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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Cloudclast on an April 2007 day.


Description 

With it's easy approach, fun moves and varied climbing it's easy to see why this route is so popular. Located on the left-most section of The Wall, a little before the northern apex of the front loop in Hidden Valley Campground. The crack is enjoyable throughout it's entire length, with stemming, jamming and combinations of the two techniques all played out on good rock.

Gear belay and a somewhat circuitous but easy downclimb off the slabby backside. Hint: once down to the desert floor, head left and then follow a trail that will circle back towards the base of the climb. Three stars out of five.


Protection 

pro to 3"



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Hands Off

BETA PHOTO: Hands Off

Some campsight boredom!! This route looked AWESOME after a couple brews so. . .

Some campsight boredom!! This route looked AWESOM...

Hands Off

BETA PHOTO: Hands Off


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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 23, 2007
By Tom Black
Mar 4, 2003

There's a nice "punch bowl" on the top...a great place to watch other climbers. Good crack climb to toprope for beginners.

By Woody Stark
Oct 17, 2004

This is a fine route that I led for the first time yesterday. Also, it's sandbagged by a point; it's solid nine.

By Dustysdawg
Dec 27, 2004
rating: 5.8+

This is a really fun climb. It looks easier than it really is. There are three different 5.8 crux sections and all types of techniques are employed. I would give it a 5.8+ and three stars. I used all sizes of gear from a green alien up to a #3 Camalot. It takes great pro.

By Bryce Breslin
Oct 7, 2005

Buenazo!!

By Ryan Avery
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.8+

Well, I liked this one too for the first 15 feet until I decked and broke my ankle in 3 places. Watch out for the opening moves and place early and often. I placed a bomber hex and #6 bd nut that held great. The problem, I didn't place when I had the chance at 15' up. A lesson to all leaders who get lazy with an easy grade such as this one. Awkward 5.8+.

By nicole
Mar 4, 2006

Awesome route with some akward moves in a shallow crack.

By Obi
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.8+

Somewhat awkward, but really great moves all the way up. Not sure if what I was doing was jamming, face climbing or a weird hybrid of the two. Definitely makes you think about how to use your feet and set your body up correctly for the moves.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Oct 24, 2006
rating: 5.8+

The beginning of this climb may be a bit "R-ish" for some folks.

By Jeremy Werlin
Dec 31, 2006

Excellent, technical route. A favorite for afternoon sun.

By Rich Servantes III
From: Toyota-rado
Jan 3, 2007
rating: 5.8

Fun route!! We did this at night which made for a fun time.
The route is directly behind our camp so, a couple of beers later boredom set in and the rack went on!!
Definitely a cool mix of jamming/stemming. The to out was real fun as well.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.8+

As a new leader you might find this route awkward and a bit hard.