Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up A...
Description
Climb a ways up to the first bolt (1/2"), do the crux and then wander upwards on steep slab past three more bolts to the top. Gear belay and scramble/downclimb off to the climber's right (fastest being along the margin of the wall just right of this climb).
A worthwhile and fun route worth doing while in the area which is not nearly as greasy as it's neighbor to the left.
In a very rare and commendable move Alan replaced the bolts on this and all the other routes he put up in Joshua Tree; if more people took the time and effort to replace the old bolts on their routes places like Josh would be even nicer and certainly much safer - thanks a ton Alan!
Location
Found on the right-hand section of The Wall, this is the bolted route just right of Chalk Up Another One (5.10a) and the last climb encountered before the face ends in a jumble of stacked blocks.
I strongly suggest that one approach this route from the first two bolts on "Chalk up another One". If the leader pops off the other side of the buttress-no protection, it will be grim.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jul 8, 2006 rating: 5.10b PG13
A bit run to the first bolt, immediately afterwhich is the bulging crux move(s).
Agree with the previous comments - the moves to the first bolt are no walk in the park. Falling from the very committing crux, while not a long fall, wouldn't be much fun either. The climbing eases considerably after the crux moves and is relatively well protected.
While I did this route when young and stupid, I haven't since been willing to commit to making the dicey moves to the first bolt. If you're short (I'm 5'7"), it's a blind, committing reach that if you flub, well...you'll be talus food. Too bad because the climbing higher up is pretty nice.
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