Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
The route beings with vertical face past several horizontals (gear to 1.5") to a step left into a long right-slanting hand crack. Midway up the crack work right a bit with your feet on the face as you which leads to a large ledge with bolted anchors.
This is an often overlooked route that is on par with some of the more popular Hidden Valley classics that often have a line of people on them. If you haven't done this climb check it out - you may be pleasantly surprised.
Location
Located on the East Face of Chimney Rock and identifiable as a right-slanting crack leading to a large ledge just right of the namesake "chimney" which splits the rock.
Fun route. I don't think it's any better than the classics mentioned in the intro, but it's worth all the stars in the guide. Would recommend carrying your tiny cams for this one. There are a few thin horizontal slots down low before you get into the main crack system that would eat cams smaller than finger size. I didn't take anything smaller than a green alien and was kind of wishing I had....there's pro without the small stuff, it's just a little funky.
Take a look at the bolted face route "Blind Ambition" to the right on your way down...it's another good one while you're there.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 7, 2007 rating: 5.8+ R
As Vogel says in his latest guide, this climb is classic Josh 5.8 for the grade. Don't jump on this unless you are solid on 5.8, as the protection in the first 40 feet - while available - is not straightforward and sections ultimately have ground fall potential.
I found a 0.75 Camalot useful in the first pod, and then got opposed RPs about 20 feet later (protecting the leftward traverse).
An OK climb IMO, but no where close to a favorite 5.8 in the park for me.
If this is a classic J-Tree climb for the grade, there must not be a lot of good 5.8's in the park. I might do it again because the rap was so convenient.
By Brian Hench From: Anaheim, CA Mar 4, 2009 rating: 5.9+ PG13
A classic Joshua Tree Sandbag. 5.8 the same way Leaping Leaner is 5.6.
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.8
Did this route per a friend's reccomendation. Found myself wondering if I had even gotten on the right route... way to grainy to be considered a classic IMO. Plenty of other routes in the park at the grade that are much more fun/aesthetic/worthwhile.
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