Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face
Description
Located on the west side of The Old Woman, about 25' right of Double Cross (5.7+) and 10' right of The Sexy Grandma (5.9) is this climb worth checking out.
Start off a block and make funky, unprotected 5.10 moves to a high first bolt (don't fall). You'll be glad to clip this, as there are some thin moves above the bolt climbing up to a small roof (pro possible here). After the roof pass a horizontal crack and then continue up well protected face past two more bolts. A small cam will fit in a horizontal after the last bolt and protect the finishing moves to a ledge. Scramble left to rap anchors atop Double Cross, or alternately it's possible to traverse left in a horizontal and reach the Sexy Grandma anchors.
A fun route that would be a lot more popular if it had some decent pro at the start. This is one climb you probably won't be waiting in line for and a good climb to do when on this side of the rock.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 26, 2004
The bolts have been replaced with modern hardware. A fall, however, before clipping the first bolt would likely result in a visit to the hospital. There is currently a bolt hole right off the deck that *might* offer some protection using a removable bolt. The moves in reaching the first bolt are definitely solid 5.10.
The Old Woman - West Face
RSS Feed
