Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Description
I'm sure there are many ways to get to this route. I have never approached it from the east side, but I know you can get to a set of anchors just below the top on the east side by downclimbing a short chute off the top of the Old Woman. From those anchors, traverse across right to the base of the crack splitting the overhanging roof. Get the #4 in the bottom of the crack, kneebar, schooch up, get some more pro, and you can make a loooong reach up and inside to the inside edge at the top. Then move out and do some serious jungle-gym moves (caution: burly) to get up and over the top of the crack. Although short, this is a very cool route!!!
Protection
Take a #4 Camalot for the bottom of the crack. Heck, a #4.5 or #5 might even fit at the very bottom. Stack mostly big cams for this, from #2 on up.
Back when I started climbing at JTree (25 years ago!) this route was considered a direct finish to the route "Deviate". Deviate used to be rated 5.9 back then, but I think now it is a bit harder, which is why it is now seldom used as the approach to this route.
Steelmnky - I think I remember the same guy...short shorts, long hair. He seemed to have a regimen of soloing the in the morning...funny. He'd go up Dogleg or Double-Cross, then climb over to this roof. Then he'd traipse around to the other HV moderates, making sure to attract as much attention as possible.
Thanks for brining back those memories from the early 90's!
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 1, 2005 rating: 5.7
Notable for it's airy position and little else. Were this on the ground it wouldn't be as memorable. Two stars out of five.
I respectfully disagree. If this route were on the ground, it would be a boulder problem, and a popular one at that.
By mmurduff From: Foothill Ranch, CA Oct 30, 2005 rating: 5.7+
Incredibly fun, terribly short. We approached from the anchors of Double Cross: walked up a ramp to a crack went up to the summit and then dropped in next to Geronimo.Belay at two bolts (nice!) Medium to large gear for the leader and enjoy! When you pull the lip, yell: GERONIMO
The Old Woman - East Face
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