BETA PHOTO: Soapy Tit Wank is the dike below the Hoser Crack.
Description
Directly below the start of Lean Two and Hoser is this route. A dike crosses the rock right to left. It's currently bolted with grey hangers which are possibly the only color which would stand out more than standard silver.
To be honest, I really thought there was a unique move or two on this route that was intriguing. However, this climb would have been better left an obsure (and possibly *'ed) TR than the blatant eyesore that it is.
Protection
Four bolts with grey anchors, smattering of hand size cams for anchor at the base of Hoser.
Ok, possibly aside from the colored hangars (they don't stand out that bad!), this route definitely does not deserve the bomb. It deserves a star, at least. It's much more interesting than Georgia O'Keefe right next door which has 1.5 stars at the moment (WTF!). The climbing on this traverse is more intesting than the usual monotonous smear, high-step, repeat of many JTree slabs.
But come on... 11a? No way. I've climbed slabs rated 10a in JTree that had harder moves. I think 10b/c may be a fair rating.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Feb 15, 2007
Adam;... You the MAN! I agree;...Soapy Tit Wank deserves a star;....if not for the climbing, a star for the cool route name. I love the climb, and I'm not just saying this because I did the first ascent;....it's got some cool slabby moves;...AND the 5.11a rating;....not MY rating;... we called the thing 5.10+.....(which means 5.10c/d;... your call.) Thanks Adam, for calling it straight. It aint' a dick-wrenching mega-classic, but good fun.
Perpetual Motion Wall
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