The line of the route is not hard to spot. It is a unique crack up the vertical west face of the giant boulder which forms the summit of Jerry's Quarry. The start of the crack is thin fingers, and is is covered partially by a huge "ear-like" flake. Mantle onto this, and continue up the thin crack with increasing difficulty. The crux comes at about 25 feet when the footholds vanish and the face overhangs a degree or two past vertical. After this, some nice finger locks replace the desperate finger-tip jams, and the angle eases slightly. Be sure to utilize the tiny but solid edges under the crack for your feet. Just before the mantle onto the summit, you have an almost no-hands rest, and one you will want to milk! At the top, savour your send of one of the world's finest routes, at one time one of the first routes graded 5.13, (hey, they had EB's and straight-sided nuts).
It's possible to scramble around the backside, where there's usually a short piece of rope to yard up and over the top, if you want a toprope.
Protection
Despite the widening appearance of the crack near the top, the largest pro it takes is #3 TCU (or #1 friends). Take 2 each TCU's #1 and #2, one #3 and some finger sized stoppers.
By C Miller Administrator Oct 22, 2006 rating: 5.12c
A striking splitter and one of the best pure crack routes in Joshua Tree. Toproping this makes the route quite a bit easier (several letter grades) than leading it.
Placing gear is real straightforward on Equinox. I think that leading being a whole grade harder is a bit of an exaggeration. Harder yes. A full number harder, well... Regardless, Equinox is arguably the finest crack in Jtree and one of the best fingercracks in the West if not the entire country.
This thing is nowhere near "a full number grade easier" on TR. 5.11c on TR? Bwahahaha, that's a good one! If you're willing to take longish falls, there are decent locks/stances at the start, at the scoop, and above the scoop to place gear from. The gear is very straighforward, especially for a harder JT climb.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Nov 7, 2007
I've heard similar sentiments about this climb not being 5.12 if on TR.
My 2 cents: This finger crack is simply amazing. The best I have ever seen on an intrusive rock. Leading it or TRing it? Not much different in my opinion. I say this because the thing takes perfect gear everywhere. Finger size cams just fall in. There are also some spaced, but really good locks- so if you're resting on em anyways, why not just drop in a cam as well? This crack was also the most painful I have ever experienced. I had flappers on my fingers afterwards. It is brutal. Smear those feet and yard on those locks, try not to bleed out... good luck. It is as good as it gets.
I have to agree with *someone*, it was 11d+/- on TR with "discreet" rope tension ;)-
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 19, 2008
I have to agree that this climb is harder on the lead than on TR. I sent second go on TR, but have yet to send it on lead. There's something about being locked off on a painful fingerlock, trying to wiggle in a cam, while the feet are skating and the arms are pumping out. That seems to add some difficulty.
haha, not sure I agree with that! the crux is 5.12 no matter what! the bottom may be .11+, the top may be .11-, but the crux? leading it didn't necessarily feel much harder than tr, just a little concerning because if you fall you may leave a finger. My finger went numb for 3 months after one attempt!
By C Miller Administrator Jun 8, 2009 rating: 5.12c
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