Robert MacKinnon pulls through the crux on Light S...
Description
Light Sabre is one of the finest cracks for it's grade in Joshua Tree. It is long, sustained, continuous, and it will consume as much gear as you can throw at it. On the south side of Star Wars Rock are several right-slanting cracks. Light Sabre is the rightmost, with a small right-facing corner for the first half, a bulge, then a straight-in crack for the top. You can't walk by without being drawn in by its siren song. Expect a variety of jams, from locker fingers to off-hands, and a good solid pump.
Protection
Standard trad rack, with extras in the fingers/hands range; 2 bolt anchor/rap.
The bottom stem/layback crack is very forgiving when it comes to gear selection. Fun section . . . imagine a full pitch! Crux is probably getting into or out of it. Good rest afterwards, and again also after the highstep/bulge section. Then easy jams to the top. Fun route!
Great route, that corner is awesome. It can be jammed, or chimney-ed. Both are equally fun. Exiting the corner is tricky. Then the boulder move up is the crux, I though.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Oct 13, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Fun route with great pro. Good one for newbies to Jtree. Not really "long, sustained, continuous" but altogether satasfying. Cedric's is considerably harder to do and to protect, so don't let the Saber lull you into taking that one for granted.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Nov 14, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Surprisingly physical climbing for a JTree 10b. The opening corner is awkward, but chimney moves allow hand free rests to place gear.The bulge crux above protects well, and presents its own awkward challenge as well.Then enjoyable hand jamming to the top.
I placed medium nuts and 1/2 to #1 Camalots (a few of each size might be useful).
We climbed it on a sunny day in November in the mid 60s and baked - bit of a solar oven effect - so save it for cool or windy days.
super clean rock , grat fun , good gear. If you want to add some spice , start it from the pit. BAM!! some one should add another anchor for all the top-ropers.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 18, 2007
Nice route, nice rock... kinda hot.... kinda awkward in a spot or two. This is the destination route for the formation for most parties. Sample some of the other routes while you are here, even if you TR them.
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