Lost Pencil area. Galapagos in background. Photo b...
Description
Contains a mix of fine climbs, near to the Geology Tour Road. Easy to find using Randy Vogel's guidebook. One route on Jerry's Quarry stands out as perhaps the best pure finger-crack in America. Equinox is an outstanding route, as it appears to be the only "natural" weakness up a 90 foot tall boulder. This area is quite remote and does not see much traffic so expect a total absence of engine noise and gawking tourists.
Getting There
Take geology tour road south for about 3.7 miles to pullout #5. This is clearly marked with a brown plastic post, and is on the right-hand (west) side of the road. Beyond pullout #5, the road deteriorates significantly, becoming passable only in 4WD vehicle.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas:
The line of the route is not hard to spot. It is a unique crack up the vertical west face of the giant boulder which forms the summit of Jerry's Quarry. The start of the crack is thin fingers, and is is covered partially by a huge "ear-like" flake. Mantle onto this, and continue up the thin crack with increasing difficulty. The crux comes at about 25 feet when the footholds vanish and the face overhangs a degree or two past vertical. After this, ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Photos of Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas Slideshow
Ahhh! The Lost Pencil.My girlfriend and I Hiked all the way out to it, did the approach pitch, and then bailed. The crux was the first fifteen feet protected by one bolt and involved bold manteling above the bolt. I couldn't summon the nads so we rapped of the bail biner that was already there. I was bummed. This is like a "Headstone" but in the middle of nowhere, or so it seems. Apparently there is a new route called No. 2 on the left arete. I couldn't get off the ground. What a fuckin' day.
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