BETA PHOTO: Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock), JT.
Description
A surprisingly cool route with good moves in the upper and lower sections. High crux on good rock. Very cool movement and a safe climb. Should get more traffic...
Location
Just left of Boulder Dash. Six obvious bolts will help identify the route.
Maybe the bolted line doesn't follow the original TR. The bottom is no harder than 10+, the top is .11. Great fun with good moves up high. Changes is more sustained than this one.
On the TR FA, we started with the boulder problem start (V3 in the bouldering guide) to the right of the bolted line, then up easy face to finish up the bulge immediately left of the Boulderdash Corner (about 10 ft. right of the first bolt on the upper bulge).
Curious why the Fa'ist didn't take the line up from the boulder problem? That seems like the true line. This line is safe as long as the 1st bolt on the headwall doesn't fail, then its adieu to thee my fair lady. Concerning for me because my short a$$ has to do a full on dyno to get onto it! Awesome climbing at the top tho!
I don't know where the V3 problem is (probably right off the sand), but it isn't what is currently bolted. It is off a "mini-ramp" with a reach to a big shelf.
Rob, much like the coward I am, I put a cam in the upper horizontal just in case. You have a good point regarding height, there are a few big reaches on this one.
On the upper section you move through the hole visible in the photo, with most of the climbing right of the drawn line.
It is perhaps better that this route does not begin at the V3 boulder problem (which lies about 7-10 feet to the right). After all, who wants to see bolts on a boulder problem? And, the start to this route is fun even if it is not as hard.
Being average of height, I found the move past the 1st bolt on the uper headwall (4th bolt), to be very reachy -- and as such -- probably the most difficult.
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