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Little Hunk - East Face
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Power Failure 

5.11a

   

FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, May, 2008.
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 70 feet
Views: 102 page views

Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jun 1, 2008


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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Power Failure


Description 

Same start (.8/9) as Power line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.


Location 

You can walk on/off via the slabs to the northwest.


Protection 

CDs .3 to 1 inch. Two #00 metolious tcus (or black aliens) are very useful on the section below the first bolt.
Gear anchor: 3-4 inches.



Add Comment Comments on Power Failure
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By Bob Gaines
Jun 1, 2008

While there are no moves harder than 10+, the upper face is sustained, reachy, and tricky; probably 11a for the on-sight leader. High quality rock and fun moves- the upper face is bolted like a sport climb. Getting to the first bolt, however, will be more than a little scary if you don't have the right pro.

By Murf
Oct 20, 2008

Didn't place any truly small gear, protected high on Power Line, and then moved a bit down and right, then up to the bolt.

Really enjoyed this route, another well protected gem by Bob. Felt there was a real crux at the 3rd bolt, took me a while to read it.