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Little Hunk - West Face
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Monkey Business 

5.8

   

FA: Tony Yaniro 1974
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 308 page views

Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Feb 22, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: John Dubrawski tops out on Roofing Company - cragc...


Description 

This exciting route is the rightmost of two prominent right facing roofs on the right side of Little Hunk's southwest end. At first glance, it would seem harder than its rating but after a closer look you'll see edges for your feet and an edge for crimping through the mid-roof crux. After pulling the roof a boulder is back behind the climb with a sling on it and a couple of rap rings. Not the best anchor but it works and drops you right back to the start of the route.


Protection 

This roof crack is really just one size throughout at a #3 to #4 camalot. I didn't have the fancier new camalots but a #3.5 would be perfect. A red alien will protect the crux if you can set it before committing to the move.



Add Photo Photos of Monkey Business
The west face of Little Hunk with the distinctively shaped block of The Chair visible atop the formation.

BETA PHOTO: The west face of Little Hunk with the distinctivel...

Susan slugging in some pro before heading out the ceiling.

Susan slugging in some pro before heading out the ...

View from Little Hunk/Monkey Business

BETA PHOTO: View from Little Hunk/Monkey Business


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By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Feb 16, 2007

I used two peices - 3.5 camalot and a 3.0 further to the left before turning the lip. The 3.5 was perfect but a 4.0 would work well too. After the lip the route eases through some large blocks and no pro is really needed other than for the anchor.

Speaking of anchor, I set one on a large flat shelf just up from the blocks. When it came to decending there are a few choices.

1) - scramble up and behind the Monkey Business to the top of a bolted route (wage & price ceiling?) to the right which has chain anchors.

2) - drape your rope around a large/fat horn like feature and rap off the west side over the large roof.

~Susan

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 16, 2007

Tip: Use your feet! A power undercling is not needed.... nice route!

By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8

A cool fist crack roof. The crux seemed to be getting down. I down climbed from the middle of the route that susan is referring to in her #1 recommendation.