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Eff Eight 

Eff Eight 

5.8

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 20 feet
Views: 250 page views

Submitted By: Graham Roff on Mar 27, 2005


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Shawn soloing Eff Eight.
Photo by Blitzo.



Description 

This route, while in the Mounds, is actually located on a separate formation slightly to the north of the main rock. A single left leaning crack splits a rounded west-facing rock.

The bottom section goes easily with a nice juggy crack to pull up on. The top flares out and becomes difficult to protect, going from loose to cupped hand jams. The route is very short, fairly technical and moderately fun, not a good 5.8 intro climb however.

Almost a highball boulder problem, but the crux is definitely near the top so watch out!


Protection 

Bottom protects well with mid-sized cams, upper flared section takes larger (#3 or #4 BD) gear. Awkward gear anchor with small cams and nuts.



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By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
Oct 24, 2006
rating: 5.8

A good anchor can be setup on top by slinging one of the big, stable boulders with your climbing rope (or cordelette if so inclined). Near the top as the crack flares, there are good smears outside the flare for the L foot.

rob.calm

By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8

I wouldn't go out of my way to climb this thing. But you might as well climb it if your walking by. Sort of like Tennis shoe crack, but less sharp.

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.8

Set your anchor higher up. I found great gear in a horizontal crack, I think it was large cams. From there it is a safe walk off, climber's left.