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Time in the Penitentiary AKA:Two Flew the Coop 

The Ridiculous Finish 

5.11b

   

FA: Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, 11/06
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 156 page views

Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Dec 20, 2006


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Description 

From the Humerous anchor, this direct finish continues straight up on slightly overhanging face climbing past 2 bolts to the top of the overhanging block, where there is a 2-bolt rappel/lower-off anchor (100 feet).


Protection 

2 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Murf
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11b

Fun moves, with some tricky beta. Pumps you out more than you would think for the distance.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
May 30, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b

Murf, you climb a lot in Josh, you really think that thing is .11b? I led it today after not climbing in Josh for 4 months & hung after the first bolt. Figured it was my head, grains, ... but not the grade. Confirm it's a true 11b and I'll be pretty happy vs. disgusted I hung when I didn't need to.

After you get established it really is some fun climbing and absolutely worth doing if you're in the area. May be short but packs a good punch.

Finish hold to clip the anchors can be a burner. Also make note that even though the route is 2 bolts I clipped the chain anchors at the ledge too so bring an extra draw when linking up humorous with the Ridiculous Finish.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 31, 2008

Nice send, Susan!

By Murf
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.11b

I'm kinda done w/a,b,c,d, more into 11-, 11, 11+. I think it's 5.11 for the onsite grade. You get this feeling you should undergrade because this bit is so short, but it's tricky, and punchy for its length. You have to think about the ledge that you never get quite far off.

In short, I sound like locker... 5.8+++.