Pope's Crack is an extremely nice-looking vertical crack located on the south-facing portion of Echo Rock. It can be reached from the main Echo face by hiking right and around the formation with EBGB's on it. You can't miss it. Jam your way to the top of the crack. Climb up and to the right from there, to set up a belay in a crack above the belay for the British Airways (10c) route. Then scramble a short ways down to rap from the bolts at the top of that route.
History
The crack was first spotted by Craig Parsley and John Long simultaneously in the Spring of 1975, but a sprint to the wall allowed Parsley and Pope to make the first ascent. Long stood at the bottom of the climb encouraging Parsley to peel so he could "bag a first." The climb was completed with only one piece of protection in the first 20 feet.
Ya I think this route is probably 5.10a. I climbed it acouple of years ago after spending considerable time climing (and even leading a few 5.10s) in Squamish BC. This climb is great!!! But I was a whimpering baby at the top.
Hard to say on the rating, I've done it a few times and, for me, there's one akward spot in the crack right before it lowers in angle but it's otherwise just good jams. In my opinion there are a lot of harder 5.9's in Jtree (also a lot of easier ones). 5.9 is kind of a messed up grade anywhere, and rerating a lot of 5.9 climbs seems like it would somehow disturb some greater balance :)
to finish the original (i think--and still great climbing) line, you climb up the crack till about 15 feet below the roof; from here you traverse left on the sloping ledge for about 20 feet (no pro) and make one final 5.6ish move to gain the crack. run it out some more on moderate ground so as to avoid killer rope drag (gear available though) and build an anchor at the top. walk down the other end of the dome.
In the 1970's, the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 (or 5.11) was quite distinct. When Mike and I put up this route we figured it was a 5.9 based on the 5.10's being put up all over JT. Times and criteria change, don't they?
When Mike and I put this route up in the 70's the distinction between 5.9 and 5.10 was stark. There was no 10a,b,c, etc. So, if you think its a 10a, it could be. If its still a 5.9, okay. Nevertheless, it sure is a sweet line.
Craig Parsley
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California May 3, 2003 rating: 5.9
Finally climbed this crack. looks easier than it is. I agree that the crux is just before the angle eases back some. Not sure if this is a 10a. I think it's probably an awkward 5.9. Some people think Touch N Go could be 10a. I found Touch N Go to be easier than Pope's Crack.The downclimb on Pope's is classic. If you pop off the friction slab at the top, you sail. There are certainly harder downclimbs in Josh.
Just did Pope's on the last day of our trip last week (my 10th to JT or so). What a sweet line! I don't really think its .10a - especially by JT standards. I thought the jams in the crack were just about perfect the whole way. But, I also climber in Veedauwoo, WY for 5 yrs, so my sense of "perfect" may be a little twisted. Even if it is a bit awkward in a couple of spots, the gear is bomber. Especially if you take a big cam (3.5 or 4 camalot) to stuff high in the lower crack before the traverse. Enjoy!
i made my partner lead it thank god! dan nay fought it all the way then bailed at the top. after wathing him i balked. glad i did too. he said no 5.9 here hard 5.10 in the sun!
Well protectable route and the moves are 'funky' as I have found typical for J Tree. It's not simple waltz but requires some good body english for the leader. It protects very well and if you can handle the crux then the traverse should not be a problem for you. Falling at the traverse to the left can reap serious percussions. So be solid. Pro to 3" mostly medium. THe route faces south-southwest so afternoon sun is present and there is some shelter from high winds. Great quality rock.
I don't know why anyone would down climb this route when all you have to do is walk around the large block to the right, down a bit and rappel off the anchors.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Sep 25, 2003 rating: 5.9
Downclimbing the route is half the fun. Anybody can rap.
Ah yes, downclimbing the route. Always trickier for the "follower;" make sure to protect the 2nd well, particularly when they try to reverse the face traverse.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 13, 2004 rating: 5.9
I'd give the route 5.9. Funny, as one reviewer mentions it, I'd also give Touch and Go 5.8. Both are fun in any case.
Coming from the outside (I am a frequent visitor, but no local) it's been my observation that J-tree has a skewed rating set. I'm stronger on cracks in some areas, on face in others, but can usually climb about the same. Still, I always seem to find J-tree friction routes with thiny sloper holds harder than graded, and seem to find the cracks easier than graded. Perhaps modern J-tree 'local consensus' is being delivered by people who are slab masters and not as strong on cracks?
And whatever goofy AC posted the "it's a crack climb, go up it" comment was ignorantly proving his irrelivence. Obviously, anyone who says that has not done the route. What an embarrasment.
This was one amazing route. Once the technical crux is beneath you the route still keeps you thinking. As an inexperienced slab climber, I found the traverse to be the mental crux of the route, although I doubt that it's actually difficult. Next time I would bring two #3 Camalots for the first half of the route and a #4 to place high before starting into the traverse. Double length runners for sure!
Great route.. did the route right after Mike put it up..SA I think..and it is a little harder today than 30 years ago..some of the holds inside the crack have broken off and on the face also...Like the DC3 a timeless classic..I agree with Dave..10-
Larry Stone? Larry the Lion Tamer, Larry Loads, Larry that helped crack the famous Louie Case?
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 22, 2005 rating: 5.9
A good route, but not as enjoyable for me as say Touch And Go or Norweigan Wood. The climb offers good jams and protection but tends to be somewhat awkward in the lower (crux) section as well as wander a bit up higher. Once past the small ledge about 30' up the climb gets much easier. Two and a half/three stars out of five.
Fun climb with good pro for the aspiring trad leader. I rapped down British Airways to the right to get down.
By Kevin Currigan From: Lakewood Feb 26, 2005 rating: 5.9
Whew! It is sustained but great pro the entire way. So, if you left your rack in the crack like me there are several features at the top you can sling with your rope.
By Lizzy Trower From: Pasadena, CA Jan 27, 2006 rating: 5.9
Climbed this route for the first time recently. I thought it was great! The moves were all interesting and it protected very well. It was definitely 5.9, especially by J-Tree standards and compared to the 10b's I have lead in J-Tree. The traverse is also not that bad if you've lead some of J-Trees sportier "bolted" routes. Its really not that far...
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Oct 9, 2006
I just love to read comments stating it goes harder than 5.9. On-sighted it just yesterday with expectations of a slick and hard route. I was pleasantly surprised and didn't have any trouble at all which by definition means the route is no harder than 5.9!! Maybe it was temperature related - late in the day, shady and low 70's. No slick rock, great protection and fun, fun, fun!
Echo Rock - South Face
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