Vern at the crux of the route. You can also see St...
Description
Swept Away takes a striking line up the prominent buttress that defines the south end of Echo Rock. Two great pitches mark this climb that goes at a much easier grade than appearances might suggest.
P1) Start at the toe of the slabby buttress (right skyline as seen from the parking area) and climb up towards a roof (this first bit is the same as T.S. Special). At the roof turn the corner to the left and climb improbable face past 3 bolts to a bolted hanging belay. P2) Steep smears lead off the belay to a bolt, after which comes the crux- a balancy move to a right facing flake. Continue up the flake past a fixed pin and some gear placements to a bolted anchor/rap.
Although possible to do in a single pitch if mindful of rope drag, this is best done in two. A hanging belay midway allows one to enjoy the desert from a unique perspective and contemplate the wild-looking crux pitch above. A single rope rap (100') from the top with a 60 meter rope will get you back to terra firma.
Protection
Bolts, pro to 2", bolted belays/rap. All bolts are 3/8".
Rope drag is hell if done in one pitch. Definitely split it into two. A manky old bolt proects the very delicate slab moves to gain the crack on the second pitch. So it's as much a psycological challenge as a physical one. Rap from the top on a single rope.
Did this route yesterday.. the bolt before the crux (and it seems all the rest of them) have been replaced (thanks to whoever!!). For the descent you can make it to the ground with one 60m rope from the top out anchors. We did it in one pitch and it is great at the end of the day since the rock is much warmer than the air!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 5, 2003 rating: 5.11a
Another gift from Dave Evans.
A route which seems to just hang there, in full view of everyone, yet I have hardly ever seen anyone climbing it.
I found the crux to be just after leaving the hanging belay, a tricky face move. Being tall the flake above went okay, with small pro if I remember well. very exposed at this position.
Killer!!
Has position, intimidation and quality.
5.11a
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Nov 6, 2004 rating: 5.11a
Along with some others, I went out to shoot this route (photo) and to hopefully find some folks on it (or even TS Special) but never did see anyone on it. Now that I think about it, over the last 14 years, I can only rememeber a half dozens sightings of climbers on this route. Maybe we'll sandbag it as a 10d, and it would see more traffic.Very nice route (and view).
i dont know if calling it 5.10d is really sand bagging it, its really the truth the most gimme 5.11 ive done in the park.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 8, 2006 rating: 5.11a
This climb ROCKS!
Both pitches are quality, and the position is superb.
I found the crux moving slightly left and up after clipping the bolt on the 2nd pitch (but before reaching the flake).
I fiddled with gear at the extreme base of the flake (from a stance just left of the bolt) for about 10 minutes, only to get rewarded with a small RP that promptly fell out as I made one move upwards. Bonus excitement.
There may be better gear at the base of the flake, but with my height of 5'9 I couldn't reach a much better looking spot to protect about 6 inches higher.
The first few flake moves are strenuous but not technically difficult - though I wasn't interested in stopping to place gear and instead just motored to a great rest 4-5 feet higher.
From the flake rest, just place a bomber cam and then enjoy the moderate but exposed climbing to the top!
Lead on a blistering, HOT day in June (we covered ourselves in chalk for sunblock). Nobody was in the Park. Malcolm did the crux after an interminable delay. I had to remind him that he hadn't fallen yet so he should "Go 'till you blow"! So he sent it, and we scurried off into a cave. He was beside himself for HOURS. Very high quality crux section!
Echo Rock - South Face
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