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Mounds
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Behind The Green Door 
Caligula 
Deep Throat 
Eff Eight 

Caligula 

5.9

   

FA: Jack Marshall, Karen Wilson & Eric Charlton 1989
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 108 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Caligula


Description 

High atop the Mounds formation, on a blocky section dubbed the Porno Block, is where you'll find this short, southwest-facing route. Approach via slabs from the right (southeast) to reach a spacious ledge system which also accesses the routes Behind The Green Door (5.10d) the bolted climb immediately left of this route and Deep Throat (5.9) a somewhat novel climb from the old days.

Steep friction and thoughtful balance moves along a rounded arete are the nature of this route, with the crux coming somewhat between the two bolts. Well-protected and featuring a bolted anchor (unless it has been chopped), this could certainly be considered a sport climb.

The fun movement, good positioning above the desert floor and distinct lack of crowds (they'll be over at Echo Rock) make this a short but fun diversion. One star out of five.


Protection 

2 bolts (5/16"), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")