Best done in 2 short pitches, although you can lead it in one if you really watch out for rope drag. The first pitch hand traverses up and right across a dike past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt alcove belay. Pitch 2 traverses left, then up steeper face climbing to the top.(6 bolts and 2 fixed pins) Bolted belay/rap anchor. Rap 80 feet.
The dike for pitch one is wonderful feature, complete with mica flakes and embedded quartz. You are never sure what shape the holds are going to be on it. The traverse and groove on P2 are harder than they look from the ground, while the roof is easier than it looks. I'd go 4 of 5 *'s for this one, Bob's eye for quality didn't fail him on this one.
Done in 1 pitch gives a crux for all types of climbers, the dike traverse on P1 will frustrate those you have difficulty with delicate footwork and intricate handholds. P2 is powerful and will sap the strength of those unused to steep pulling. As KC mentions backclean the first bolt and use shoulder length runners for the single pitch push.
A very fun route. We did it in one pitch, which is recommended. 10d/11a as such. 4 of 5 stars. If you want to treat it as a sport route and lower off (or to TR others), take a 10 foot extendo or a few extra runners to lengthen the anchor so rope runs free.
Leader should take about 6-8 shoulder length runners to use instead of draws. (P1) Use runners on all 4 bolts. (P2) Don't clip the belay anchors. After clipping 2nd bolt (with a runner), back clean 1st bolt on 2nd pitch. After clipping bolt above roof (again with a runner), back clean the one below the roof. Runner on two fixed pins (or long draws). Rope drag will be no problem.
End up on this about once per season. It's really a great route, hasn't gained the attention of the masses yet, and bakes in the sun. The dike holds can be harder to use than you expect, especially for their size. The smearing at the end of P1 seems to be cleaning up nicely.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Nov 25, 2008 rating: 5.10d
Absolutely steller! Destined to become a well travelled classic once this gets published in a book. I did it in two pitches, but now that I know the route I might try one pitch the next time. Felt 10d to me this way, and even in one pitch you can get a sit-down rest at the anchor....
The route is safely bolted, for both leader and follower (despite the traversing nature)
The dike traverse felt about 10b/c. Really fun climbing! Second "pitch" felt around 10d, with the crux right in the middle of the headwall. The upper roof had big jugs, but it takes a little energy to find the path of least resistance. After clipping the last bolt and pulling the roof, two closely spaced pins lead left to the anchor.
Note of caution: my second pumped out and fell off the last roof. She swung left under the pin and it was extremely difficult for her to get back to the easiest part of the roof. Not much one can do to alleviate this, but just something to know....
Sun all afternoon, and I suspect sheltered from the wind as well.
Follow the directions on the Anasazi Wall page and it'll lead you right to this climb. You'll pass the popular Funny Bone/Norweigen Wood routes on the N. Face of Snickers, and just keep walking up the valley and it ends at this wall and route.
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