Best done in 2 short pitches, although you can lead it in one if you really watch out for rope drag. The first pitch hand traverses up and right across a dike past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt alcove belay. Pitch 2 traverses left, then up steeper face climbing to the top.(6 bolts and 2 fixed pins) Bolted belay/rap anchor. Rap 80 feet.
The dike for pitch one is wonderful feature, complete with mica flakes and embedded quartz. You are never sure what shape the holds are going to be on it. The traverse and groove on P2 are harder than they look from the ground, while the roof is easier than it looks. I'd go 4 of 5 *'s for this one, Bob's eye for quality didn't fail him on this one.
Done in 1 pitch gives a crux for all types of climbers, the dike traverse on P1 will frustrate those you have difficulty with delicate footwork and intricate handholds. P2 is powerful and will sap the strength of those unused to steep pulling. As KC mentions backclean the first bolt and use shoulder length runners for the single pitch push.
A very fun route. We did it in one pitch, which is recommended. 10d/11a as such. 4 of 5 stars. If you want to treat it as a sport route and lower off (or to TR others), take a 10 foot extendo or a few extra runners to lengthen the anchor so rope runs free.
Leader should take about 6-8 shoulder length runners to use instead of draws. (P1) Use runners on all 4 bolts. (P2) Don't clip the belay anchors. After clipping 2nd bolt (with a runner), back clean 1st bolt on 2nd pitch. After clipping bolt above roof (again with a runner), back clean the one below the roof. Runner on two fixed pins (or long draws). Rope drag will be no problem.
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