A short and awkward climb up the most obvious of the two cracks on this face. The crux comes about ten feet off the ground and involves an balancy move from the flaring crack onto the face.Difficult to protect and not recommended.
I didn't enjoy this climb. The crack is flared and gear doesn't seem all that nice. I guess the crux came low, but there were all these buckets just right . . . should I feel guilty for using them? Short climb . . . how did it get two stars in Randy's guide?
I can't figure out this one either. It was ok, but it crack is flared and I wouldn't lead it. I TR'ed it after leading Little Rock Candy Crack just to the right. Easier than it looks, but wouldn't gear up all that good. I would recommend a TR up if you are in the area.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Apr 25, 2005
I disagree. this crack eats small pro.very fun climb.
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal May 6, 2005 rating: 5.9
A great climb requiring somewhat technical tips jamming and thoughtful gear placements.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 21, 2006 rating: 5.9
As someone who seconded this route, I can't testify for the mental security that the pro may or may not have provided but I do remember it came out ok, and my leader didn't whine about it. As for the climb itself, its an ok crack if one is kickin around in the area.
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