Two routes right of the popular Bonzo Dog Band (5.7) this route climbs a nice lieback to a short tenuous face move to an easy crack to the top. The route takes solid trad gear, the crux is well protected, and there are rap rings at the finish. What else could you ask for? Parking for the route is maybe 18 feet away. 2 stars out of 5.
I just TRIED climbing this last week and think that something is wrong with the rating and description of this route. I agree it starts with a nice layback to a very tough crux at the end (I took a 20'er to a cam I had at the lip. Then the description says it's easy crack to the top??? By the guidebook photo it seems that you should climb straight up to the anchors and that passes 2 horizontal cracks and 2 bolts. The climbing is desparate and well above the 10a level. Does anyone have insight to what happened to me??
The straight up route you describe, past the 2 bolts and horizontals, is called Fear of God (5.11c). The 3 bolt arete right of that is called Fear of Dogs (5.11a); both routes end at a shared 2 bolt anchor found on the ledge above.
Axe of Dog finishes slightly to the left in a left-slanting crack shared by Ass of Dog. The bolted routes were done after the '92 Vogel guide came out, but they are in the 2002 edition of Central JT (Bartlett).
Echo Cove - South Face
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