This is the first promising looking crack on the south facing north formation. This climb is fun as the name implies with some thoughtful moves but plenty of big holds and nice rests. For spice move left at the top over the slight overhang-good hands and feet.
Protection
Medium cams and nuts. Double bolts and chains at the top.
Like the name implies, this is a very enjoyable climb. If I remember correctly, the beginning is some slab climbing past two bolts before you reach the crack. The move past the first bolt is MUCH harder than 5.8 IMHO. Either that, or I'm starting on the wrong route.
It is deffinatly not harder than 5.8. I see on this site it is rated 5.8. Is it the same in Randys and Als guides? I thought it was rated 5.6. It is not hard by any measure of the word. I stick with 5.6.
I agree with your comments on the lack of difficulty. I just seem to have a hard time with the first move. Maybe it's just me.
By mmurduff From: Foothill Ranch, CA Oct 23, 2005 rating: 5.9-
Its been two years since I first lead Fun Stuff and I can't remember the start being too difficult. I went back agin this weekend and was totally surprised by the ultimately crimpy start of this 5.8. The climb begins with small crimpers on flaking & crumbling rock w/o foot holds. Yeah the first bolt is close enough you could clip and pull your way through it, but thats not the game we play. Same type of crimpers past the second bolt, however, the rock is more sound. The rest of the climb is stable and not harder than 5.8; and worthy of two stars!
It's all so subjectiveMike
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 21, 2006 rating: 5.8
Just lead this for the first time this last week and WOW what a cool move off the deck. I would definately say that the first move is pushing the 5.8 envelope but the rest of the route is at best 5.7.
This is a really fun route. Like several other J-Tree routes, the first 10 feet don't really count in the rating. The start was hard, but the rest of the climbing was easy and fun at 5.8.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 2, 2008 rating: 5.9+
I found the start to be harder than the Echo Buttress TR to the right. Maybe its a short person's climb...ha ha.
Topped out by mantling off the finish jug at climber's left. On the rappel off, noticed that wasn't the "easy" way to finish. Sporty! Fun route.