BETA PHOTO: C.S. Special Climbs the right side. R.M.L. climbs ...
Description
This climb is located on the right side of the large flake which leans against the main formation and sits almost directly behind a parking "corral".
A bouldery start over a small roof starts things off, after which a delicate mantle and a few balancy moves bring one within reach of the first bolt (a spotter is helpful, but the best advice is to not fall). A series of polished slabby moves follow with one commiting move after the last bolt. Gear belay under the summit block and rap or downclimb (easy 5th class).
With it's ease of access and engaging moves this route has seen the passage of many a climber, and the polished holds are a testament to that. Short but fun, but better done on a cooler day or in the shade. Two stars out of five.
Great route. I can't say it's 10c because I'm 6'3" but I can see were someone shorter (like my partner 5' 10") might for the start boulder move. The rest of the route is just fun with logical moves. A little run at the end I recall. The start involves undercling to left side cling and left foot up on the left rounded (polished corner). Yee Ha!
Awesome route! Spicy start with a well protected crux. Bring a crash pad if you think you're going to crash at the start. The runout after the last bolt is not bad as long as you can climb 5.7 ...
This was my first climb in J Tree. I tore my tips up working on the opening moves. Then I saw the stem off to the right, made the move and cruised the rest of it. Super fun climb and well protected with bolts.
By Pat C From: Honolulu,HI... was in Indio Mar 23, 2009
my first 5.10. Randy Vogel's purple guide from the 80's said it was 10a. I found this climb extremely frightening, I'm going to do it again.
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