The opening moves on Iron Maiden, before the addit...
Description
This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.
The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.
The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.
This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.
Protection
Quickdraws for five bolts and small TCU's (#1 - #3) on the first pitch. Quickdraws for four bolts on the second pitch. Bolted anchors are at the top of each pitch. Two rappels to the bottom with one rope.
In a 1 to 3 star system this is a 3 star route. Great and varied climbing, with 2 good pitches. And as was pointed out, a bit more traffic would clean up the the section of looseness. 3.5 stars out of 5. A must for the grade.
I want to add a 'shout out' for this route: it's really really good and well worth the blood loss from all the Cat's Claw Acacia that chokes the canyon on the approach.
I led it as one pitch from the ground and found the flared climbing on the second pitch very intriguing and also very difficult. If led as one pitch I recommend the strategic use of a couple of really long runners.
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