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Snickers - South Face
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Iron Maiden 

5.11d

   

FA: P. Borne et al.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 130 feet
Views: 89 page views

Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 6, 2003


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David moving through the crux at the fourth bolt.


Description 

This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.

The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.

The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.

This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.


Protection 

Quickdraws for five bolts and small TCU's (#1 - #3) on the first pitch. Quickdraws for four bolts on the second pitch. Bolted anchors are at the top of each pitch. Two rappels to the bottom with one rope.



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David making the powerful moves across the hand rail.

David making the powerful moves across the hand ra...

Iron Maiden is also a British Heavy Metal Band.

Iron Maiden is also a British Heavy Metal Band.


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By Mark J Gain
Mar 1, 2005

Interesting climb, going to the first set of anchors from the last piece of good pro is spiceay...With some traffic this climb will blossom.

By Randy
Mar 3, 2005
rating: 5.11d

In a 1 to 3 star system this is a 3 star route. Great and varied climbing, with 2 good pitches. And as was pointed out, a bit more traffic would clean up the the section of looseness. 3.5 stars out of 5. A must for the grade.