Hard moves over a roof (the crux) to a strenuous handcrack lead to a ledge with rap anchor. The upper part is seldom done but continues up steep and varied crack climbing.
By C Miller Administrator Nov 10, 2003 rating: 5.11a
A nice climb with a "sport climber's" start up overhanging jugs to reach the slanting hand crack. Rap off anchors on a ledge 50' up or grovel up an unpleasant chimney to finish.
The "official" info that Tony Yaniro was on FA is actually incorrect. Tony showed this line to Mike and Nick and they all bouldered up it (doing the crux) and climbed back down. They agreed to return when they had more time to lead the entire route. The next weekend, Tony didn't show so Mike and Nick did the route w/o Tony. Tony later sent in FA info to Mountain Magazine crediting FA to he, Mike & Nick, because he had done the crux earlier. This info got picked up and was used in all guides since. It has been corrected in Vol.1. as have a number of other long standing FA mistakes.
Protects well. Stays a little steeper than you might expect after the roof. If it's cold (this face stays a bit chilly) or you're super gassed (like I was), you may want a 3.5" piece to protect the last body length or so to the belay (which I didn't have, but a tipped out #3 camalot worked ok). The climbing is dead easy in that last little bit with plentiful face holds to help out, you certainly don't NEED a 3.5...but when you can't feel your fingers or close your hand...you might want one.
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