BETA PHOTO: Echo Rock. "TS Special" goes up the buttress on th...
Description
Start at the toe of the buttress (same as for Swept Away) and climb the slab directly up to the prominent roof which is turned via some thought-provoking moves to a stance with a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead up and left to the bolted belay/rap for Swept Away. Rap off with a single 60 meter rope or make it more of an adventure and walk off. A fun route that is recommended for those solid at the grade. Pro can be placed in the crack at the base of the roof, but the moves over the roof are largely unprotected and will result in a fall onto the slab.
The bolt is still a quarter-incher I believe, although you'll still be happy to clip it.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Nov 6, 2004 rating: 5.9-
I used to enjoy laughing with people who complained about manky bolts, or fp. I'd always ask rhetorically if they clipped it and always recieved the sheepish smirk of affirmation.
A good route that deserves two stars in my opinion. I followed it many years ago and had forgotten the exposed nature of the overhang (crux). If the leader blows it here he'll need a litter. The face above (never more than 5.6) is runout for about 60'; but pro can be set in the crack to the right if you want to move in that direction. The bolt above the overhang is ancient but lovely.
I followed Woody up this and can only give it one star due to the ease of getting to the roof and how easy it was above it. I found it to be a "Boulder" problem above and below a relatively easy start/finish.........but the roof moves were cool so I say give it a shot. Straight forward rap off of bolts and a short walk to your gear.......