BETA PHOTO: "Raked Over The Coles". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This excellent crack climb is located about 100 feet right of Pope's Crack. It is first crack (of a series of vertical cracks) that actually reaches the top. The crack that peters out to its left can be used as an alternate start (but why?).
The crux comes early (getting established into the "pod"); after that you can romp up the moderate 5.10 crack above. Descend by rapping off the 2 bolt anchor atop British Airways.
Protection
Cams from 0.5 inch to 2 inch. Protection is generally excellent, though you have to do a few moves at the bottom to get your first piece in.
I start this route in both the left and right cracks. Either small cam or brass to protect the start ( can't recall right now ). Feels beefy for .10d, was initially intimidated by a third hand story of a climber breaking their femur on the route ( big bone, hard to do! ).
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 11, 2004 rating: 5.10d
Fun and unique- good stemming and lie-backing off of sometimes rounded holds. Personally, I wouldn't call the gear excellent... didn't you have a little trouble getting a secure stance to place it?
Echo Rock - South Face
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