This excellent route is located on your right (south) as you walk into the Cove from the parking area. It takes a fairly direct line about 25 feet right of the large right-facing dihedral on the upper portion of the wall (Boulder Dash, 5.9*).
The climb name is "short" for big dynamo or dyno, the technique used by the first ascent party to solve the crux move down low. Though this move is now commonly done statically, shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold.
Great climbing from bottom to top on excellent rock.
Protection
If you chose to lead this route (you have to do the crux without pro); bring cams 1 to 2 inches for the two horizontals.
Most people top-rope this climb (2 bolt anchor on top). The route is rarely lead, but often free soloed.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 22, 2003
"...shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold" - that is absolutely right (I'm 5'6"). However, the fun doesn't stop there. The climbing eases up for a bit, but there are still a few powerful moves just below the top - pace yourself!
Definately not 11b, more like 11a or 10d. Really fun route though. Crux coming out of glove.
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 30, 2004 rating: 5.11a R
A long-established Josh classic with a distinct crux down low and steep, continuous moves at the top. Climbers with little endurance may find the moves at the top to be another crux if pumped. This route is conducive to doing laps and could be considered the roped equivalent of Gunsmoke.
I climbed Big Moe today and a guy told me about a "proud line" that went straight up from the horizontal crack rather than traversing to the left. Any info? It felt like an 11d or 12a move and definately reach dependant.
There were two of the three hangers removed recently on Big Moe.........the new one remained and is solid as can be........as of today, one more anchor is back and solid so it is as it should be.....No more are thre three.Two will have to do (Later on I may go back and work on a third. I wish exisiting bolts liked, loved or hated would be left as they are......It is not up to us in my opinion to decide if it was right or wrong to put it there as long as it is placed properly.....AS I posted on Joshuatree.com...I do not condone or promote adding bolts/anchors as "easy raps" to avoid downclimbing etc... If you don't like the way to get off, please don't add your own and think you are doing a great deed.......you're not!
Woody: I liked the idea, but it (and other possibilites) present legal challenges:
Small fire on chest --- violates out-of-bounds campfire rule.
Staked over ant hill ---violates prihibition on feeding the animals.
Hanging them by feet off an overhanging face -- violates leaving unattended gear rule.
Hmmmmmm.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jan 28, 2006 rating: 5.11a
The direct line from the horizontal goes, just as mentioned at about 12a. It involved camming one's foot into said horizontal which could cause ankle damage if one fell at the wrong moment. I witnessed M. Verdugo walk this line 9 or 10 years ago. We called it "Bigger Moe."
Fun, reachy or dynamic crux and creepy pump up high. If it's the roped equivalent to gunsmoke, maybe I just don't have it wired yet. Seemed a bit harder than V2. Good stuff, 3 of 5 stars for a toprope. Would be a quite proud lead.
Echo Cove - South Side
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