BETA PHOTO: RAF (left) to Hot Knife (right). Copyright 2003, b...
Description
Locate the tall face where The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C. converge; this route is on the second rock to the right. You can access the top of the rock via a fourth-class gully left of the face.
R. A. F. is the rightmost of two routes that diverge near the first bolt; Penelope Street (aka Battle of Britain), 5.10a/b, is the left of the two.
Nice friction, with the cruxy moves only slightly above bolts.
Alan Winter was of British orgin and Dave Houser named the route R.A.F. not for a Royal Air Force as Alan supposed, but for Royal [or Real] Ass F*cker.
The real reason it was called RAF, was that there was a rather large Yucca with very pointy branches right at the start of the route. In fact, at the start we had to traverse in from the right to get above it. So Dave and I decided on the pun right when we finished the route. I don't know if the Yucca is still there. But the reason for the route name should now be obvious and an inside joke for years. It has been a long time since I climbed. I miss the old crowd of Mike Waugh, Dave, and the others. Randy has an excellent memory to remember that I am English.
I didn't see that yucca but if I had led this I would have been looking for it (so I wouldn't land on it). This is a real spicy friction climb. There are 0 big holds and its all balance. There are no anchors at the top so you'll need some gear for the belay.
Anyone know what the variation to the left near the top goes at? I believe that the Vogel guide has it at 10a but it felt more like 10c to me.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Dec 10, 2004 rating: 5.9+
I climbed this on 12/09/04. Haven't been climbing a whole lot, but thought the crux to be a little harder than just 5.9. A very nice route. Definitely will be back.
I tend to agree with 510b4me on the rating. But 5.9/5.9+ whatever depending/ It is a fun as hell, friction plus zero hold Jtree special. There are anchors on top that can be used now to bring up your second. Hopefull they will not be chopped by some SOB thinking he/she is God of the rock.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 21, 2006 rating: 5.9
Led this route many many years ago, sans the belay bolts at the top. Fun face route, good for the rating of 5.9