Along the right side of Echo Rock, a separate fin of granite forms a gully to the right of Eff Four. Perched on the southwest side of this smaller formation is a humongous square-sided boulder. EBGB's goes up the outside face of this boulder.
Make a tricky mantle/bellyroll onto a shelf at the first bolt, then turn the corner and continue up the thin face above with an attention grabbing finish. Awesome moves and location make this a must-do Josh classic.
Protection
5 bolts to a bolted anchor which is located in the center of the block. The rap anchor is on the south face at the lip. All bolts are 3/8".
By C Miller Administrator Jul 11, 2002 rating: 5.10d
A super cool route that epitomizes the Josh experience, the technical crux being a balancy mantle right off the first bolt, after which the climb goes left and up around a blunt arete onto a steep slabby face. From there 4 bolts lead up the face - the 1st two are close together, but as you climb higher the bolts get farther apart ending with some 5.8/5.9 moves at the top about 20' off the last bolt. Four stars out of five.
Around 1986 or so a climber fell off the finishing holds and sheared through the eyehole of the old Houser hanger (homemade soft aluminium) resulting in an extra long fall. Back in the old days you would see these homemade hangers on many classic routes stamped with Dave Houser's intitials (DPH). On certain bolts that saw a lot of falls you would see these hangers with elongated eyes where the force of repeated falls had stretched the metal like taffy!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 5, 2003
After a most puzzling start, involving a belly roll, the climb turns into a memorable outing up a huge boulder stacked above the abyss.
For me is was essentially brain exploding smearing on a rippled steep face, with the occasional "whew" when clipping the bolts, of which there are very few.
Don't relax 'till you're standing on the top!
Justifiably, one of the ten 5.10s. Essential exposed face climbing.
There was a very famous punk club in New York City's East Village called CBGB's around the time this climb was put up -- bands that got there start there included Blondie, the Talking Heads, the Ramones, and the New York Dolls. For that matter, it's still around. I always figured that EBGB's was a play on that ...
While the name EBGBs is a pun (a play on the expression Heebee Jeebees), that is NOT the orgin of the name. Interesting story, you see chboi JHAN gosn KFJirjak fdjkp fjoaj dfkjpo fljo motive didn't fit well!
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