Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Echo Rock - West Face
Show routes:
Select route...
Battle Of The Bulge 
Cherry Bomb 
Cole-Evans 
Double Dip 
Eff Four 
Falcon And The Snowman, The 
Forbidden Paradise 
Gone In 60 Seconds 
Heart And Sole 
Highway 62 
Legolas 
Love And Rockets 
Minute Man 
Quick Draw McGraw 
Stichter Quits 
Stick To What 
Team Slug (aka Cliff Pounder) 
Ten Conversations At Once 
Too Bold To Bolt 
Tooth Beaver 
Trough, The 
Try Again 

Forbidden Paradise 

5.10b

   

FA: Alf Randell and Rich Tucker,1987
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 494 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 25, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Echo Rock - West Face Left


Description 

Forbidden Paradise is located just right of the Stichter Quits area and just left of a corner in the middle of the Echo Rock face. Climb up featured rock past bolts to the same anchor as Stick To What. I recall this as being an excellent route and quite well protected for a Josh face climb.


Protection 

Well bolted. I'd call it sport for Joshua Tree. 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8").



Add Photo Photos of Forbidden Paradise
Forbidden Paradise. First bolt is in the forground. I think I had just clipped the last bolt when it was taken.

Forbidden Paradise. First bolt is in the forground...


Add Comment Comments on Forbidden Paradise
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2007
By Randy
Feb 4, 2003

Very good climb, but 3 stars may be, well... a bit enthusiastic.

By Steven Powers
Oct 30, 2003

in between the frst and second bolts you can also slot a small stopper, its not that far from the next bolt but its there if you want it, this climb and heart and sole are the best climbs of that grade on Echo Rock.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Dec 13, 2003
rating: 5.10c

Good climbing that's a bit steeper and better protected than most of the climbs on Echo Rock. The moves up to and past the first bolt are SUPER greasy and show the effects of popularity. Optional nut placement between bolts one and two as Steveo mentioned. Fun climbing with sustained balancy moves and good protection. Three stars out of five.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 24, 2004

The moves up to and past the first bolt are indeed GREASY--in fact they are grease defined. My leader took six falls on that first bolt. The six pack of beer probably didn't help...

By Kevin Jeffreys
Jan 27, 2004

I'm on the short side of 5'8" and I need to make the crux rock over step up BEFORE clipping the bolt. Not bad...just heady.

By Bo Johnston
Dec 16, 2004
rating: 5.10b

This route is too good!

By Locker
Jan 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b

lead this again and felt in the b/c area today.......this one is really nice and has some super cools moves..... deffinatly bolted well.......not "Sport" but as mentioned by someone...kind of "Josh Sport"..... to the "Sportsters"...do this one you'll love it! Safe with a touch of Josh Thrill...........

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Feb 19, 2005
rating: 5.10c

Any advances over the last 25 years in the adhesion qualities of rubber have been rendered obsolete by the increasing smoothness of that one foot placement at the crux. Some nice moves on this route.

By Joe Dawson
Apr 17, 2006

I think this is a great route. It is well bolted for Joshua Tree standards and reasonably bolted by other standards; I dont like runout and it feels fine to me. The moves are fun and varied and choosing the easiest line takes a little figuring. I would not burn the energy hanging out to place a nut on the route unless you have a nut fetish - the bolts are not that far apart. I would like to think the route is a little sandbagged since it took me three goes to redpoint it, but it could be one of those home crag advantage things. Crux is between first and 2nd bolts and the roof move is hard until you figure out how to do it. I love this route (obviously that Randy dude dont know nothin about JTree:), it was a very rewarding climb.

By Rich Servantes III
From: Toyota-rado
Jan 3, 2007
rating: 5.10

I agree the crux is between bolts 1&2. I got my feet by the bolt, felt 'em slipping and had to do the'ol back-run to 'till i was caught!! Sweet route took me a couple tries to figure the crux out.
I put a GREEN alien where others plased a nut. I f the next moves were gonna be as hard as the earlier I wanted "something" there but, didn't end up testing it!! The roof moves aren't bad just, hard to commit to.

By Bill Olszewski
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 10, 2007
rating: 5.10b

Awesome route for JT face climbing. You guys are right - well protected for Josh. Rich - glad to know I'm not the only one to take a lead "run" form the crux, ha ha. But what a great ride it was!