I remember this one as a classic "fingernails and friction" Josh route. Thin edges with the occasional better stance to let your mind breathe before you launch off on the next bit. Goes up the left side of a big kind of "inverted U" shape in the rock to the right of the Stichter Quits area. I recall the upper half easing some. Veer right to anchor, rap down the middle.
Protection
Bolted, but not sport. You'll have to friction climb a bit past 3 bolts to a bolted anchor/rap (3/8").
I though this was a challenging route with bolts a little spaced to keep you honest. Kinda hard for 10a I thought. Maybe it was just hard/scary because I climbed it in Sept, in the sun with my Boreal Aces!
Definitely .10a. Great moves up smooth rock!. This is no harder than heart and sole, just a little less edging and more smearing. Probably why it was harder in Sept!
My so called "Partner" had me lead this yesterday telling me it was a 5.8+. Yeah right! After a few slips and slides on what felt somewhat "Polished" at the start, I gave my shoes a good scrub and made it on up with no problems. Nice, fun, but a bit smooth I assume due to all the climbers through the years. Tan!!! I still owe you...................now it's is TWO!!!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Apr 16, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b
Echo Rock - West Face
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