Nerve Storm 

FA:  Walt Shipley & Kevin Fosburg 3/87 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 114 page views Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 1, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Some routes in J-Tree are undeniable sandbags. Nerve Storm, rated 11c in the '92 guidebook, is one such route. I thought this route was significantly more difficult than Hidden Arch (11d); a similar climb. Begin left of Like My Lump in a very thin crack. Bouldery moves gain a stance where a prominent bulge exists. Very strenuous placements of tiny cams / stoppers protect very difficult moves (crux) over the bulge and into a left slanting steep dihedral where the crack widens to hands. Sustained moves (10+) to the crack's end lead to a steep face (10+ / 11-) and eventually one bolt (somewhat runout to the bolt). Slab climbing past the bolt leads to the top.

Location 

Nerve Storm is on the left end of Queen Crimson Dome and visible from the trail.

Protection 

Very thin cams / stoppers - brass to 2" for protection. Small to medium cams are necessary for an anchor.