Fraggle Rock

Stairway to Kevin (5.8), Joshua Tree. Photo by Gre...

Description 

Superb sport and trad climbs are found on this formation that sits high on a ridge on the eastern edge of the Desert Queen Mine area. Most of the climbs are west or north facing and remain shaded during the morning / early afternoon. Many (but not all) of the ratings for the routes in Randy's guide seemed soft for J-Tree but the star designations are reasonable. Excellent sport climbs include I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Sensory Deprivation (5.12b). Petrodynamics (5.10d) and Tiers For Fears (5.10b) are among the best trad climbs.

Getting There 

One approach to this area that doesn't involve driving on dirt roads is to park at the Split Rocks area and take the developed trail that goes to the Morongo Man Cliffs. The trail continues to the top of the ridge and then continues north. You will pass old mining tunnels and tailings before reaching a miner's cabin at the base of Fraggle Rock.

The Classics