80 Proof Roof 

FA:  Bill Cramer, Mark Uphus & Michelle Pinney 1/89 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Season:  Late fall to early spring Views: 120 page views Submitted By: Graham Roff on Feb 27, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Cerro Torre tower proper in the background, the ro...

Description 

This route climbs the face to the right of the chimney on Cerro Torre Tower.
Climb up the start of the chimney then traverse right to the first bolt. Continue up the face, staying to the right side past one more bolt to the roof. Pull a strenuous move from the corner to surmount the roof. Finish a few more tricky slab moves then on to easier terrain to the top.

This is a good route with thought provoking moves on somewhat lose rock. Not for the beginning 5.10 or JT climber.

Location 

Rap down to the climber's right to avoid getting the rope caught in the chimney. A 60m rope is best (not sure if a 50 would get you all the way down).

Protection 

Two bolts "protect" the bottom. Gear (0.5-1" cam) can be placed under the roof. Two more bolts follow on the upper slab section.
The rap anchor at the top currently consists of four or five old pieces of webbing and one rap ring. A gear anchor can be made for belaying a second with 1-3" cams.

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BETA PHOTO: "80 Proof Roof". Photo by Blitzo.