This is the prominent climb on the prominent formation in the Comic Book area. A beautiful two-pitch crack running up wonderful white granite. Solid crack climbing skills needed.
P1) Climb a crack running up the wall (interesting 5.8) to a scoop/alcove where two bolt belay is found.
P2) This pitch starts with the crux of the climb. Some call it 10a. Crank your way up and over the upper lip of the scoop and into the continuing crack above. Enjoyable jamming leads to the top of the formation.
Descent: Scramble down off to the back and right through boulders.
With the horrible flaring offwidth start, I don't understand how the FA acually decided to climb this! I bitched and moaned for 10 minutes before committing, but I'm glad I did. The rest of the climb is great, but my 5'2" partner had lots of trouble on the crux.
Rather than top out and walk off, I opted to traverse left about 30' from the top on a horizontal to the rap chains of Full Frontal Nudity, which, on a 60-meter, took me to pitch one of this climb, then to the ground (well, close enough).
BTW, the comment on Full Frontal Nudity about the #4 Camalot applies here, too.
Three stars!? Maybe two at best but I'd say only one or 1.5...the first pitch is decent but the second pitch has about ten feet of good climbing (the crux), then miles of low-angled monotony to the top. Not a climb to repeat in my opinion.
By Tyler Logan From: Running Springs Nov 7, 2003 rating: 5.10a
The location and purity of the line make this route worth doing in my opinion. Belaying in the hole is a cool experience. I was inspired to climb it after seeing Kauk and Gingery style up it in Long's THE ART OF LEADING.
We liked this route last weekend. The start was intimidating but the purple camalot looked good. Its too bad the second pitch eases so quickly. We took quite a bit of time scrambling off to the right but got lots of good chimneying practice. Thanks again to the guys in green and black who made the upper part look so good from watergate rock.
The first pitch can be done with small cams in the back of the OW. No big gear required. The crack also peters out after a while and turns into some face climbing; micro cams are needed to protect this section.
The second pitch crux felt as hard or harder than the moves at the top of Illusion Dweller. Two stars because of the first pitch quality. The second is nothing to write home about.
By keli From: San Diego, CA Nov 25, 2007 rating: 5.10b
First pitch is good, use your hip in the offwidth. Crux at start of second pitch...definitely harder than 5.9+. Not sure if its a reach thing...but the second pitch is a sandbagged struggle for 5 feet then a whole pitch of 5.5. Doesn't deserve all the stars.
Sounds like all the folks who dislike the route also disliked the blow to their ego. Old school 5.9 or 5.9+. Definitely a bouldery crux on pitch 2, but overall one of my faves in the park when you combine the variety of climbing and out there location. I'd say a solid two stars.
Comic Book
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