Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Description
This route is to the right of Yucca Bowl. Start at a left leaning crack, step right over the crack and into a bowl. Head straight up to a right leaning crack. Pass the crack and head straight up the slab to the top.
Protection
small stoppers, 2 bolts for pro. small/medium gear for anchor. [The 2 protection bolts were replaced 4/00 by the ASCA. -ed.]
I haven't climbed this route but I agree that there are many many unremarkable routes. It's good to know what and where they are, obviously, as well as the bombs. It's important to know what's been climbed and by who, and to know the difference between unremarkable and lousy. But in Joshua Tree, with somewhere between 4000 and 6000 routes climbed and available, I (and just about everyone I know) uses the guidebook to plan which crags/formations to go investigate based on starred routes that appeal and are in the appropriate route range for one's lead abilities, then go check it out and then wander around the area identifying the other routes and doing what appeals. For this system to work there cannot be 3000 routes with 2-4 stars, obviously, which is I think what Randy and Chris are getting at with the profusion of 2-3 star routes on this site that probably aren't. The idea isn't to have a Bell curve of every route from 1-3 (or 1-5 for Randy) stars. The idea is to have most routes be 0 or 1 stars and the really great climbs be 2 stars (or 3 or 4 for Randy) and the true classics - stuff that people who have never been to jtree will here about - be the 3 (or 5) star routes - like Illusion Dweller, Figures on a Landscape, Father Figure, Double Cross, Gunsmoke, Left Ski Track, More Monkey Than Funky, Mental Physics, etc...
Yes, plenty of unremarkable, and then there is the choss. As I always say, to be a Josh local takes skill, time, and an enthusiam for choss( mostly 'cause I'm far away from being a local ).
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Mar 21, 2003
I think I remember Chris calling that "chasing the grain".