Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
In the center of the Northwest face there are two slanting chimney/cracks that join at the top forming a sort of inverted vee. This climb lies roughly 25' left of the left chimney/crack and climbs a section of smooth face protected by six bolts [4 of which were replaced 4/00 - ed.].
Due to it's well protected nature and and quality stone this is a popular climb of this area, one that should not be missed.
Protection
6 bolts (3/8"), but you will need to take gear for the anchor (medium to large cams will work).
By Dynomight510 From: San Diego Aug 20, 2003 rating: 5.10d
Great face climbing with well spaced bolts and I can attest that the falls are clean Sustained climbing with a good crux. I tightened my shoes for this one. Trad anchor and walk off to the right(West). If you decide to top rope this route, extend your anchor at least 25' to reduce rope drag and abrasion.
Locker and I climbed this route today, first for me and third for him. Locker feels it's becoming a bit more difficult--getting greasy. For sure it's 10d and getting very close to 11a.
I see that it is in fact rated 5.10d here as opposed to the 5.10c in Randys old purple guide... GOOD!!!.. I had forgotten. Woody and I as he posted did this beauty today... I loved it just as much as when I did it before... It does seem a wee bit harder and the start slightly smoother... But doable obviously... Really cool, thin edging... Protected just right!!!... Not too many! Not too few!!!...
I just did this route on 3-8. I'd done it several times before, but not in the last 20 years. It does seem to have gotten a bit smoother over the years. For me the crux is between the 4 and 5th bolt. The pull over the 1st bolt is thin and sharp but it's all there and just takes some grunting. I guess it's the style crux above that taxes my aging body! 5.11a....I don't know about that. I've done a lot of 11a's that seemed harder. 10d seems about right. Count Dracula, next door, seems harder, for me, for sure. They are both great routes and lots'o fun!
I found this route to be much harder than some of the other routes of similar grade on the wall. The first 55ft or so (imo) was non-stop .11- edging, then a tricky crux, and finally easing near the top. Although, it might have been easier if it weren't the middle of June!
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